What's inside
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What we cover
What matters inside an electrical panel
Working inside a panel calls for a drill that is short, controllable and easy to stop—not the fastest tool in the aisle. A bulky drill can be awkward around breakers, conductors and enclosure edges. A compact 12-volt drill is often enough for pilot holes and light fastening; a small 18- or 20-volt drill makes more sense if you also need to bore larger holes or drive many fasteners.
First, separate enclosure work from work on energized equipment. De-energize the panel and verify the absence of voltage with an appropriately rated tester before drilling or fastening. A drill is not a substitute for safe electrical procedures. Never drill into an assembled panel where metal chips could reach conductors or devices. Remove the enclosure or cover as appropriate, protect the equipment, and collect chips. If you cannot establish a safe, clear drilling path, stop and have a qualified electrician handle it.
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For tool selection, prioritize a compact head, a narrow grip, a variable-speed trigger, a clutch and a bright work light. A belt hook is useful on a ladder, but a secure place to set the tool down matters more. Brushless motors can extend runtime and reduce maintenance, but they are not essential for occasional panel work.
Compact drill options compared
| Type | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 12V compact drill/driver | Small pilot holes, light screws and tight access | Less capacity for large bits or sustained heavy drilling |
| Compact 18V/20V drill/driver | Mixed work, larger holes and longer runtime | Usually heavier and wider than a 12V tool |
| Right-angle drill | Restricted access where a straight drill will not fit | Specialized tool; less convenient for general fastening |
| Impact driver | Driving suitable fasteners outside delicate equipment | Less control for small screws; not a drill chuck |
Check the tool’s actual head length and weight with the battery attached. Published bare-tool dimensions can be misleading: a compact drill may gain substantial length once its chuck and battery are included. If you work in narrow enclosures often, compare the measurement from the back of the battery to the front of the chuck, not just the motor housing.
Which drill to buy
For occasional work on detached enclosures, a basic 12V drill/driver is usually the sensible choice. It is lighter to hold one-handed and has enough power for small pilot holes in sheet metal when paired with the right bit. A kit with two batteries avoids stopping mid-job, but one battery is fine for a few holes. Look for a clutch with several settings and a low-speed range; these help prevent a screw from stripping or a bit from grabbing.
Choose a compact 18V/20V drill if the same tool will handle frequent work, larger bits or tougher materials. The extra power is useful, but it can make a small job harder: a heavy drill tires your wrist, and excess torque can twist a bit or damage a thin enclosure. A compact 12V cordless drill/driver is a good starting point for light-duty work; compare chuck size, head length and battery weight before choosing a kit.
A right-angle drill is worth considering only when access is genuinely limited. It can solve a clearance problem that no straight drill can, but it is not automatically safer: the bit can still catch, and the tool may be harder to position precisely. For occasional tight spots, a short bit or a hand driver may be cheaper and easier than buying another power tool.
Bits and fasteners
Use a sharp bit suited to the material. For thin steel enclosures, a quality cobalt or high-speed-steel bit is generally more useful than a large wood bit. Start with a small pilot hole, keep the drill square, and use slow speed with steady pressure. If the bit squeals, wanders or heats rapidly, stop and check the bit, speed and material rather than pushing harder. A center punch can help keep a bit from skating on smooth sheet metal.
Deburr every hole and remove metal chips before installing the enclosure or restoring power. Chips can cause shorts, and sharp edges can damage wire insulation. Use listed fittings and the correct locknut or connector for the enclosure; do not treat a wall anchor or a sheet-metal screw as a substitute for a proper cable fitting. For mounting an enclosure to a wall, choose anchors for the wall material and expected load. A small plastic anchor may be fine for a light accessory, but not for a heavy cabinet or a load that could pull on wiring.
For small screws, a drill clutch or hand screwdriver gives better control than an impact driver. An impact driver’s rapid hammering can strip a head, overdrive a screw or make it difficult to feel when the fastener seats. Use one for suitable structural or mounting fasteners when access and material allow, not as the default tool inside electrical equipment. If you need a separate driver for general shop work, a compact 12V impact driver keeps bulk down, but it is not a replacement for a drill/driver.
Common mistakes to avoid
The common failure is choosing a tool by voltage alone. High voltage does not guarantee a compact body or good low-speed control. Another is drilling with a dull or oversized bit: it needs more pressure, grabs more readily and leaves a rougher hole. A pilot hole and sharp bit usually make the job easier than buying a more powerful drill.
Do not rely on a magnetic bit holder near exposed components, and do not let a loose screw or chip fall into the panel. Keep the work area lit, secure the enclosure, and use a manual driver for a final quarter-turn where feel matters. If the job requires drilling while conductors or energized components remain in the enclosure, stop and use a qualified professional. The cheaper drill is fine for a few properly planned holes; the right access, bit and safe setup matter more than premium features.