What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Choosing between a concrete screw and an expansion anchor depends on the brick, the load and whether you can make a clean hole. A concrete screw is usually quicker and easier to remove. An expansion anchor can provide a strong hold in sound, solid masonry, but it pushes outward on the hole and can split weak brick or damage mortar. The right choice starts with the wall—not the drill.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
What we cover
How the two fasteners hold
A concrete screw cuts or forms threads in a correctly sized pilot hole. The threads grip the sides of the hole, so installation does not rely on a sleeve expanding against the masonry. These screws are often sold for concrete and masonry; check the package to confirm it lists brick and the intended load.
An expansion anchor—such as a sleeve or wedge-style anchor—uses a bolt or screw to expand a sleeve against the hole. That pressure creates the grip. Expansion anchors are generally intended for solid masonry, and not every style is suitable for brick. A strong anchor in the wrong brick can cause a cracked face or a loose, oversized hole.
Quick comparison
| Factor | Concrete screw | Expansion anchor |
|---|---|---|
| Installation | Pilot hole, then drive the screw | Drill hole, insert anchor, tighten to set it |
| Brick stress | Little outward expansion | Pushes outward; riskier in soft or hollow brick |
| Removal | Usually straightforward, though the hole remains | May be harder to remove; the sleeve can remain in place |
| Best fit | Light-to-moderate loads and jobs where reversibility matters | Specified applications in sound, solid masonry |
| Main failure risk | Stripped threads from a poor hole or overdriving | Spinning, cracking brick, or a hole that is too large |
Choose by the brick, not just the load
Sound, solid brick gives both types a fair chance, but a screw is often the more forgiving first choice for a bracket, light fixture or similar household fitting. It avoids the high wedging force of an expansion anchor. If the manufacturer specifies a particular anchor for a substantial load, follow that specification rather than substituting based on appearance.
Soft, weathered, cracked or hollow brick calls for caution. Avoid putting an expansion anchor near a brick edge, a damaged corner or a thin face shell: tightening can split the face or break through into a void. A concrete screw can also fail in weak material, because its threads need intact masonry to bite. If the brick crumbles while drilling, stop and reassess; a different fastener cannot make unsound brick reliable.
Whenever practical, drill into the brick rather than the mortar joint. Mortar is often weaker and more variable, so a fastener can loosen even when the hole looks clean. But some installations—such as a fitting that must align with a joint—may require a different fixing plan. For overhead, safety-critical or heavy loads, use a fastening system rated for the actual substrate and load, or get qualified advice.
Drill the right hole
Check the fastener instructions for the required bit diameter, hole depth and minimum edge spacing. There is no universal pilot-hole size: using a bit that is too large can leave a screw with little material to grip, while an undersized hole can make installation difficult and damage the screw. Drill at least as deep as the specified embedment plus room for dust, without drilling blindly through a wall.
A hammer drill with a masonry bit is useful for brick, but use controlled pressure. A typical 3/16-inch (about 4.8 mm) pilot hole is common for some small masonry screws, not a rule; the package takes precedence. If the brick is brittle or hollow, try rotary drilling without hammer action first. Hammering may speed drilling in solid masonry but can spall the surface or break fragile brick.
Keep the drill square to the wall, clear dust from the hole, and stop if the bit wanders or the brick starts to crack. A cordless drill may handle small holes in softer brick; for repeated holes or hard masonry, a hammer drill is usually the more practical tool. Use a sharp masonry bit, and do not rely on an impact driver to make the pilot hole.
Install without stripping or over-expanding
For a concrete screw, drill the specified hole and clear out dust before driving. Use the correct driver bit and a steady, moderate speed. Stop when the fixture is snug. Driving harder after the screw stops advancing can strip the masonry threads or snap the screw; an impact driver can do this quickly, so use it cautiously and finish by hand if needed.
For an expansion anchor, match the hole diameter exactly, seat the anchor to the required depth and tighten only as directed. If it spins instead of tightening, do not keep turning: the hole may be oversized, dusty or in weak brick. Moving to a fresh location may be necessary, with proper spacing from the failed hole and any brick edge.
What to buy
For ordinary masonry fixings where the instructions allow brick, a box of appropriately sized concrete screws for brick is often the simpler, reusable option. Buy by the specified diameter and length, not by choosing the longest screw on the shelf.
Choose an expansion anchor rated for masonry only when its instructions suit your brick and the load. For drilling, a masonry bit set covering the required hole sizes is useful; a cheap bit is fine for a few holes in soft brick, but a worn bit makes clean, correctly sized holes harder to achieve.
If the load is light, the brick is sound and the fastener is specified for the job, a basic concrete screw is often enough. If the substrate is uncertain or failure could injure someone or cause serious damage, do not guess between fastener types: confirm the brick construction and use a tested system with a stated load rating.