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Many cordless drills can drive screws and drill clean holes, but only some can also hammer-drill masonry. Before changing modes, check the tool’s manual and the markings around its clutch. A hammer symbol usually indicates hammer-drill mode; a drill-bit symbol indicates standard drilling. If there is no hammer symbol or mode, the drill cannot be switched into hammer mode, regardless of which bit you fit.
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Identify the controls
Most combination drills have two separate controls that are easy to confuse. The numbered clutch ring limits torque for driving screws. A mode ring or selector chooses between screwdriving, standard drilling, and hammer drilling. Some drills combine these settings on one ring; others use a separate switch near the top or front of the tool. A two-speed gearbox, usually marked 1 and 2, changes speed and is not the hammer-mode control.
Look for a hammer icon molded or printed on the drill, rather than relying on a seller’s description. If the icons have worn off, consult the manual for your exact model. Do not force a selector that will not turn. The gears may be loaded; release the trigger, remove the battery, and rotate the chuck slightly by hand to relieve pressure before trying again.
Switch between drill and hammer modes
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Release the trigger and wait for the chuck to stop completely. Remove the battery if you are inspecting the bit or working near the chuck.
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Turn the clutch or mode selector to the standard drill symbol for wood, metal, and other non-masonry materials. On a combined ring, this is commonly a drill-bit icon beyond the numbered clutch settings.
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For masonry, turn the selector to the hammer symbol. If the ring resists, do not use pliers or force it. Briefly feather the trigger while the tool is unloaded only if the manual says that is allowed; otherwise, remove the battery and consult the manual.
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Choose a low gear for larger masonry bits or when you need better control, and a higher gear for smaller bits if the drill’s manual recommends it. Start slowly, keep the bit square to the surface, and increase pressure only enough to maintain progress.
Do not switch modes while the motor is running. The selector changes how the tool’s internal mechanism operates; moving it under power can cause grinding, incomplete engagement, or damage. Some drills allow mode changes only when the chuck is stopped and the motor is unloaded. Follow the model-specific instructions.
Choose the mode for the material
| Job | Mode | Bit and practical note |
|---|---|---|
| Driving screws | Screwdriving; set the clutch | Use a driver bit. Start with a low clutch number and raise it if the screw stops too soon. |
| Wood or metal holes | Standard drill | Use a wood, brad-point, or metal bit suited to the material. Hammer action can ruin the bit and damage the hole. |
| Brick, block, or ordinary concrete holes | Hammer drill | Use a masonry bit rated for hammer drilling. A cordless combi drill is useful for occasional small anchor holes. |
A regular drill bit will not become a masonry bit in hammer mode. Its cutting edges are not designed for repeated impact, so it can overheat, blunt, or snap. Likewise, hammer action is not appropriate for tile, glass, or brittle materials. Drill tile in standard mode with a tile-rated bit, using light pressure; hammering can crack it.
Drill masonry holes without damaging the tool
Use a bit with the diameter and depth specified for the wall anchor. For example, a 6 mm anchor generally requires a 6 mm hole, but check the anchor packaging: the required hole can vary by design. Mark the drilling depth with a depth stop or a piece of tape, and keep the drill perpendicular to the wall. Begin at low speed so the bit does not skate across the surface.
Wear eye protection. Masonry dust can irritate the eyes and lungs; use dust collection or clear the hole safely, and follow applicable guidance for the material. Stop if the bit binds, the drill becomes unusually hot, or progress slows sharply. Pull the bit out periodically to clear dust, especially in deeper holes. Excessive force is not a substitute for sharp carbide edges and can overheat the motor or strip the bit’s cutting tip.
For a few small holes in brick or block, a hammer-capable cordless drill is often the cheaper, more convenient choice. A rotary hammer is a better fit for repeated holes, larger diameters, or dense concrete: its stronger impact mechanism usually drills faster and with less pressure from the operator. Compare a cordless hammer drill with a cordless rotary hammer if the job involves more than occasional anchor holes.
When hammer mode is not enough
A combi drill’s hammer action is a mechanical pulsing motion, not the same as the piston-driven action in a rotary hammer. It can struggle in reinforced or especially hard concrete, and large holes may take a long time. If you are drilling several holes larger than about 10–12 mm in concrete, or the drill barely advances despite a suitable, sharp bit, renting or buying a rotary hammer may save time and wear on the drill.
For an ordinary wall anchor in brick or block, a hammer drill and correctly sized masonry bit are often sufficient. In drywall, use a drywall-rated anchor and drill the pilot hole in standard mode—or follow the anchor maker’s directions if no pilot hole is needed. Hammer mode does not improve the hold of an anchor; choosing the right anchor for the wall material does.
Check before starting
Confirm the tool has a hammer symbol, install the correct bit securely, and select the mode with the motor stopped. Keep the clutch out of screwdriving settings when drilling, since a low clutch setting can make the chuck slip or stop under load. If the selector clicks between positions but the drill produces no hammering, check the manual and battery charge; persistent failure may indicate a damaged mechanism. Do not keep drilling and assume the bit is the only problem.