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The short answer
For a few small holes in brick, a decent cordless drill with a masonry bit can be enough—especially if the brick is soft and the holes are about 1/4 inch (6 mm) or smaller. For repeated holes, larger anchors, or hard brick, a hammer drill is the more reliable choice. Its hammering action helps the bit cut masonry without making you lean hard on the tool.
“Hammer drill” here means a drill with a rotary hammer function, not a rotary hammer SDS tool. A standard hammer drill is usually the sensible purchase for household brickwork; a rotary hammer is better suited to frequent drilling or larger holes.
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What the tools do differently
A regular cordless drill rotates the bit. In brick, a carbide-tipped masonry bit grinds its way through the material, so progress can be slow, particularly in hard fired brick. A hammer drill rotates while delivering rapid, short impacts along the bit’s axis. That extra action helps break up masonry ahead of the cutting edge.
The difference shows up most when a hole gets deeper or wider. With a regular drill, progress may stall and the bit can heat up. Pressing harder is not a good fix: it can overheat the bit, strain the drill, or make the bit wander. Hammer action reduces the need to force the tool, but you still need a sharp masonry bit and steady pressure.
An impact driver is not a substitute for either tool. Its rotational impacts are designed for turning screws and fasteners, not drilling masonry. Use a drill or hammer drill with a masonry bit for the hole, then install the anchor and fastener.
Which is a better fit?
| Job or condition | Regular cordless drill | Cordless hammer drill |
|---|---|---|
| One or two holes for a light-duty anchor | Usually fine in soft brick with a sharp bit | Works well, but may be more tool than you need |
| Several holes or holes around 5/16 inch (8 mm) and up | Can work, but expect slower progress and more effort | Usually the easier, more consistent choice |
| Hard brick or dense masonry | May bog down or take a long time | Better suited; use hammer mode and avoid excessive pressure |
| Low-dust indoor work | No special advantage; drilling still creates dust | No special advantage; manage dust and protect the area |
| Drilling into soft mortar joints | Often adequate, depending on the anchor and load | Can drill quickly, but may break out the joint if used aggressively |
If your regular drill is already on hand, try it before buying another tool for a small, one-off job. If you expect to drill into brick more than occasionally, look at a cordless hammer drill. It can switch back to ordinary drill mode for wood, metal, and general household tasks.
Choose the right bit and mode
Use a carbide-tipped masonry bit sized to the anchor manufacturer’s instructions. A common plastic wall plug may call for a 1/4-inch hole, but anchor sizes vary; follow the packaging rather than guessing. A bit that is too small makes installation difficult, while an oversized hole can leave the plug loose and unreliable.
Use hammer mode in brick, but switch it off for wood, metal, and most screwdriving. Hammering can damage those materials or the bit. A standard round-shank masonry bit fits many cordless drills and hammer drills. If you have a tool designed for SDS-plus bits, buy the matching bit type; an SDS bit will not fit a standard chuck unless the tool has the appropriate chuck.
For occasional small holes, a basic carbide-tipped masonry bit is adequate. Blunt or overheated bits cut poorly and can make even a hammer drill seem weak. If the bit stops cutting, withdraw it to clear dust and let it cool rather than continuing to push.
Drill the hole without damaging the wall
First check for electrical cables and pipes, and avoid drilling above or below outlets or switches unless you know where wiring runs. Wear eye protection; masonry dust and chips can fly. Hold the drill square to the wall, start slowly to keep the bit from skating, then increase speed once it has a small foothold.
Drill a little deeper than the anchor length so dust has somewhere to go, but do not bury the bit unnecessarily. Pull it out occasionally to clear dust from the hole. Use a vacuum or suitable dust extractor near the work, especially indoors; fine masonry dust is unpleasant to breathe. Don’t blow it out with your mouth.
Keep steady pressure rather than leaning your body weight on the drill. If the bit stops advancing, check for a worn bit, packed dust, or a particularly hard spot. In a hammer drill, confirm hammer mode is actually engaged. If you hit metal, stop and investigate rather than forcing through it.
Brick or mortar joint?
Brick is generally the stronger fixing point, but drilling into it can be slower and may chip the face. Mortar is easier to drill, but it is often weaker and may crumble, so it is not automatically the better place for a loaded fixing. Choose the anchor for the wall material and intended load, and follow its instructions. For shelves, handrails, or other safety-critical loads, use a fixing rated for that application instead of relying on a small general-purpose plug.
What to buy for your job
If you only need a couple of small holes in soft brick and already own a drill, a new tool may not be worth the cost. Get a sharp masonry bit, work patiently, and stop if the drill struggles. For recurring brickwork, hard brick, or multiple medium-size anchor holes, a 18V cordless hammer drill is a practical upgrade. Check whether the listing includes a battery and charger: a bare tool is only a bargain if you already own compatible batteries.
If you regularly drill large holes or spend a lot of time in concrete and masonry, a rotary hammer is a separate step up, with stronger impact action and SDS bits. For ordinary wall anchors in brick, though, it is usually unnecessary. The best choice is the lightest tool that can make your required holes cleanly without being forced.