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Thick plywood is not especially hard to drill, but it puts more load on a cordless drill than a thin sheet does. Large holes, dull bits and long runs can overheat a compact drill or twist it out of your hand. For most work, a good 18-volt drill-driver with a two-speed gearbox is the sensible choice; spend more only if hole size, volume or awkward access demands it.
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What matters in a drill
Look for a drill-driver with a low-speed setting around 0–500 rpm and a higher setting around 0–2,000 rpm. Use low speed for large bits and high speed for smaller twist bits. A 1/2-inch chuck accepts common larger shank sizes; a 3/8-inch chuck is adequate for many household jobs but limits your bit choices.
Published torque figures can help compare drills, but they do not tell the whole story. A compact 12-volt drill may handle a few holes cleanly, while a heavier 18-volt model is less likely to bog down during repeated large-hole drilling. Consider the tool’s weight, handle shape and side-handle compatibility too: torque that is useful at the bit can also wrench your wrist.
The best fit for most people
For a mix of pilot holes, screws and occasional larger holes through plywood, buy a brushless 18-volt drill-driver with two speeds, a 1/2-inch chuck and a battery of at least 2.0 Ah. A 4.0 Ah battery is more comfortable for a long session, though it adds weight. A brushless motor generally uses battery power more efficiently and tends to run cooler under load, but a brushed drill is perfectly serviceable for occasional use.
Compare brushless 18-volt drill-drivers from brands whose batteries you already own. Buying a bare tool can save money if your battery platform is established; otherwise, compare the kit price, including charger and battery. For light, occasional work, a 12-volt drill kit is a reasonable cheaper option, especially for holes up to about 1/2 inch.
Which drill suits the job?
| Drill type | Good for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 12-volt drill-driver | Pilot holes, small twist bits, a few holes up to roughly 1/2 inch | Lighter and cheaper, but more likely to slow or drain its battery with large bits |
| 18-volt drill-driver | General plywood work and repeated holes with spade or hole-saw bits | Heavier; typically the best all-around choice |
| 18-volt hammer drill | Wood drilling plus occasional masonry drilling | Costs and weighs more; hammer mode offers no advantage in plywood |
| Right-angle drill | Drilling in tight spaces where a standard drill will not fit | Specialized tool, often unnecessary for open-sheet work |
Match the drill to the bit
For holes up to about 1/4 inch, a sharp twist bit is easy work for nearly any decent cordless drill. For larger holes, a brad-point bit gives a cleaner entry and a spade bit is a faster, less expensive choice. A wood spade-bit set suits occasional rough holes, but it can tear the back veneer and needs a firm grip. For cleaner, larger openings, use a sharp hole saw or a Forstner bit, and expect slower progress and more heat.
Do not treat a drill’s maximum chuck capacity as a promise that it can drive any bit comfortably. A large hole saw or a 1-inch spade bit can stall a compact drill, particularly in thick plywood. If you routinely drill holes around 1 inch or larger, choose a full-size 18-volt drill with a side handle, or consider a corded drill for sustained heavy work. A hammer drill is not a stronger wood drill simply because it has a hammer setting.
Drill clean holes without cooking the tool
Clamp the plywood securely and support the underside with scrap wood. Mark the center, then drill at a steady pace without leaning your full weight onto the tool. For large bits, select low gear and start slowly. If the drill’s speed drops sharply, the bit chatters, or the housing becomes hot, stop and let the tool cool. Forcing a stalled bit risks a burned motor, damaged plywood and a sudden wrist-twisting kick.
To limit splintering, clamp a backer board tightly against the exit side. With a twist bit, you can also drill most of the way from one face, then finish from the other using the small exit hole as a guide. Clear chips from deep holes by withdrawing the bit occasionally; packed chips increase friction and can scorch the cut. A sharp bit matters more than an extra-high torque claim.
Where to save—and where not to
There is little reason to pay extra for a hammer drill if plywood is the only material on your list. Buy that feature only if you also need occasional holes in brick or concrete, and use a masonry bit when hammer mode is engaged. Likewise, premium brushless power is easier to justify for frequent work than for a handful of holes each year.
Do not economize on a badly worn bit or an undersized battery for a demanding job. A small battery may work, but it can run down sooner and may limit sustained output. For a single project, a basic 18-volt drill kit and sharp wood bits are usually enough. For repeated large holes, prioritize a 1/2-inch chuck, low gear, a comfortable side handle and a battery platform with larger packs available.