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A mixed repair kit may need to drill pilot holes in pine, bore through a steel bracket, make a clearance hole in drywall, and drive screws with an impact driver. One set rarely handles all of that well. The useful choice is a core set matched to the materials you actually work with, plus a few specialty bits where they make a clear difference.
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What to look for in a mixed-use set
For ordinary home repairs, start with a twist-bit set for wood and metal, then add driver bits and masonry bits as needed. A standard twist bit can drill wood, plastic, and thin metal, but it is not a substitute for a masonry bit in concrete or a spade bit for fast, rough holes in lumber.
Check the shank before buying. Round-shank bits fit most drill chucks; hex-shank bits are quicker to swap and less likely to slip, but make sure the shank fits your drill. Impact-rated driver bits are built for repeated screw driving with an impact driver. Regular drill bits are not automatically impact-rated just because they have a hex shank.
For a useful starter assortment, look for twist bits around 1/16 to 3/8 inch, a few common driver sizes such as Phillips #2 and square #2, and a case that keeps sizes readable. A large bit count can be misleading: many sets pad the number with duplicate driver bits or sizes you will seldom use.
Set types compared
| Set type | Best use | Trade-off | Good fit if |
|---|---|---|---|
| HSS twist-bit set | Wood, plastic, and light metal drilling | Not for masonry; small bits can snap if forced | You want a general-purpose drill-bit core |
| Impact-rated driver-bit set | Driving screws with an impact driver | Does not cover most drilling jobs | You install cabinets, hardware, or deck screws |
| Masonry-bit set | Brick, block, and concrete holes for anchors | Slower than a twist bit in wood; needs the right drill mode | You mount shelves or fixtures to masonry |
| Combination set | Occasional drilling and fastening across materials | Individual bits may be limited in size or quality | You want one case for basic repairs |
Best core choice: a quality twist-bit set
For a homeowner who owns a cordless drill, a high-speed steel twist-bit set for wood and metal is the most useful first purchase. HSS bits are generally adequate for softwood, hardwood, plastic, and occasional thin steel. A titanium-coated HSS set can reduce friction when new, but the coating wears; it does not make a basic bit suitable for heavy drilling in hardened steel.
Use a pilot hole for screws in hardwood, especially near board ends. A pilot hole roughly matches the screw’s solid core, not its outside thread diameter. Without one, the wood can split or the screw can snap. In metal, center-punch the hole location, use a lower drill speed, and apply steady pressure. If the bit squeals, turns blue, or stops cutting, back off: heat has dulled it or the speed and pressure are wrong.
A cheaper HSS set is fine for occasional repairs. Spend more if you drill metal regularly or need replacement sizes; sharper bits save time and reduce wandering. For large holes in lumber, buy a separate spade-bit set rather than forcing a small twist bit to enlarge the hole.
Add driver bits for screw work
If you already use an impact driver, a separate impact-rated driver-bit set with Phillips, Torx, and square bits is often a better buy than a giant combination kit. Torx and square-drive bits tend to stay engaged better than Phillips under higher torque, which helps avoid cam-out and damaged screw heads.
Match the bit to the fastener exactly. A loose fit can strip a screw head before the screw is fully seated. Use the clutch on a drill for smaller screws; on an impact driver, start slowly and stop once the head is flush. Excess torque can bury a screw, split trim, or pull a fastener through soft material. Keep a few spare #2 Phillips and common Torx sizes: driver bits wear, and a rounded tip slips more often.
Masonry bits and wall anchors
For mounting into brick or concrete, buy a carbide-tipped masonry bit set sized for the anchors you use. A common plastic wall plug may call for a 1/4-inch hole, but check the package rather than guessing. Drill to the specified depth, clear dust from the hole, and use hammer mode only in masonry—not in tile, brittle brick, or ordinary wood.
A cordless drill with hammer mode is adequate for occasional small holes in brick or block. Dense concrete, large holes, or repeated drilling is where a rotary hammer is worth considering. For drywall alone, ordinary twist bits can make pilot holes, but they do not replace a correctly sized drywall anchor. Match the anchor to the load and wall construction; a light-duty plastic plug is not suitable for a heavy cabinet or a pull-out load.
Buying and care that prevent wasted bits
Choose a compact set with clearly marked sizes and a case that holds each bit securely. For a drill-and-impact-driver setup, separate cases are often easier to use than one oversized kit. Avoid buying a set just because it includes hole saws, nut drivers, and dozens of duplicates you have no plan to use.
Keep bits cool and straight. Let the tool cut instead of leaning hard on it, especially with small diameters: a 1/16-inch bit can snap from side pressure. Withdraw the bit occasionally to clear chips from deep holes. Clamp the work when possible, and wear eye protection; hot metal chips and broken bit fragments can travel farther than expected.
If your repairs are mostly furniture, hinges, and small brackets, a modest HSS set plus a handful of good driver bits is enough. Add masonry bits only when you have masonry work, and choose the bit diameter from the anchor instructions. That keeps the kit smaller, cheaper, and better suited to the jobs it will actually do.