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Choose the right bit for the material
“Masonry bit” covers several different tools. A carbide-tipped bit in a standard drill is suitable for many small holes in brick and block. Tile needs a bit designed for its surface, especially if it is glazed. Concrete and repeated large holes call for a more capable bit and, often, a rotary hammer. Buying the wrong type can leave a chipped tile, a wandering hole or a burnt bit long before the job is done.
Start by checking the material and the anchor instructions. The hole diameter must match the anchor, and the usable drilling depth must be slightly greater than the anchor length so dust does not stop it seating. For tile over masonry, drill through the tile first with the hammer function off, then change to a masonry bit for the material behind it.
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What the bit types are for
| Bit type | Best use | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Carbide-tipped masonry bit | Small holes in brick, block and mortar with a standard drill or hammer drill | Inexpensive, but slower in hard concrete and less durable under heavy use |
| Glass and tile bit | Small holes in ceramic tile; use a spear-point style on many glazed tiles | Needs careful positioning and low speed; not for drilling deep into masonry |
| Diamond tile bit | Porcelain, hard tile and larger holes | Costs more; needs cooling and gentle pressure, according to its instructions |
| SDS-Plus masonry bit | Frequent or larger holes in concrete with an SDS rotary hammer | Requires a compatible SDS chuck; unnecessary for occasional small holes in soft brick |
A basic carbide-tipped masonry bit set is a sensible low-cost choice for occasional holes in brick or concrete block. Look for sizes that match the anchors you use, not a large assortment of tiny bits you are unlikely to need. For tile, use a purpose-made tile bit; a regular masonry bit can skate across glaze and chip it.
Match the bit to the drill
A cordless drill in rotary mode can make small holes in soft brick, mortar and many blocks. A hammer drill adds a rapid forward tapping action that helps a carbide masonry bit advance through tougher masonry. Hammer mode is useful on brick and block, but keep it off while cutting tile: the impacts can crack the surface or loosen a tile.
For frequent concrete drilling, a rotary hammer with an SDS-Plus bit is usually faster and less tiring than a standard hammer drill. SDS bits lock into the tool’s chuck and are not interchangeable with ordinary round-shank bits unless you use a suitable adapter. An adapter can work for light tasks, but it does not turn a standard drill into an SDS rotary hammer.
For occasional anchor holes, the cheaper drill and carbide bit are fine. If the bit barely advances, heats rapidly or needs heavy pressure, stop and reconsider the setup. Pushing harder can overheat the bit, strain the drill and produce an oversized hole that will not hold the anchor securely.
Drilling tile without chipping it
Mark the hole accurately, then prevent the bit from wandering with a drilling guide or a small piece of masking tape. Tape is a positioning aid, not a guarantee against cracks. Use the drill’s lowest practical speed, keep the bit square to the surface and apply light, steady pressure. Do not use hammer mode on the tile.
Diamond bits can need water for cooling; follow the bit maker’s directions and keep water away from the drill’s electrical parts. Some small tile bits are intended for dry use. Do not assume every diamond bit has the same cooling requirement. Ease off as the bit breaks through to reduce chipping, and keep the workpiece supported where possible.
Once through the tile, stop and change to a masonry bit sized for the anchor. If the wall behind is brick or block, use hammer mode only after the tile is cleared. Avoid pressing hard against the tile while drilling the backing material: the bit can bind, and the force may crack or debond the tile.
Brick, block and concrete technique
Set the drill to rotary mode for soft brick or mortar if the bit cuts cleanly; hammer action can break fragile material around the hole. For harder brick or block, switch to hammer mode if your tool and bit support it. Drill steadily rather than leaning your full weight into the tool, and withdraw the bit occasionally to clear dust. Dust packed in the flutes slows cutting and increases heat.
Check what you are drilling before starting. Brick faces can split near an edge, and hollow block may leave little material for an anchor to grip. Follow the anchor manufacturer’s guidance on location and hole diameter. If a hole is too loose, do not assume a larger anchor will fix it; choose a fastening method suitable for the substrate, or move to sound material.
Use eye protection, and wear suitable respiratory protection when drilling masonry dust. Keep hands clear of the rotating bit and hold the drill firmly, especially when a long bit catches on aggregate. A side handle is useful on larger drills. Stop if you suspect wiring or plumbing behind the wall; a detector can help, but it cannot identify every hazard.
Buying checklist
Buy the smallest useful set for your work: tile bits for tile, carbide-tipped bits for occasional brick and block, or SDS-Plus bits if you own an SDS rotary hammer and drill concrete regularly. Confirm shank compatibility and the actual hole diameter, not just the bit’s nominal size. For anchors, match the bit to the anchor instructions; a hole that is even slightly oversized can reduce holding strength.
Replace a bit when its carbide tip is damaged, the cutting edge is visibly worn, or drilling has become unusually slow despite clearing dust and using the right mode. A fresh, correctly matched bit is often safer and quicker than trying to force a worn one through the wall.