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For ordinary holes in brick and concrete block, a carbide-tipped masonry bit is usually the right choice. “Concrete bit” often describes the same kind of bit, not a separate design. The useful differences are the tip shape, shank, diameter, and whether the bit is rated for hammer drilling. Match those to the wall and drill before buying.
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What “masonry” and “concrete” bits mean
Both are made to cut mineral materials with a hard carbide tip. A standard masonry bit has a relatively narrow carbide insert and a fluted steel body. Many bits sold for concrete use a more robust carbide head or geometry intended to withstand hammering, but labels vary by manufacturer. The name alone does not guarantee that a bit is suitable for a rotary hammer or reinforced concrete.
Check the packaging for the tool type: rotary-only, hammer drill, or rotary hammer. Also check the shank. A round shank fits a conventional drill chuck; an SDS-Plus shank fits an SDS-Plus rotary hammer and will not fit a regular chuck. Do not force a mismatched bit into a tool.
Which bit for the wall and tool?
| Bit or setup | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Basic carbide masonry bit, round shank | Small holes in brick or block with a corded or cordless drill | Inexpensive and widely available; slow in hard material |
| Hammer-rated carbide bit, round shank | Repeated anchor holes in brick or block with a hammer drill | Costs more than a basic bit; still slower than an SDS bit in heavy work |
| SDS-Plus carbide bit | Frequent or larger holes with an SDS-Plus rotary hammer | Requires a compatible tool; unnecessary for a few small holes |
| Multi-material bit | Occasional holes through mixed materials, when the bit is rated for masonry | Convenient, but may be slower or wear sooner than a dedicated masonry bit |
A “concrete” label is not a reason by itself to choose a larger or more expensive bit. For a few 1/4-inch holes in soft block, a basic masonry bit may do the job. For a row of anchor holes in hard brick, a hammer-rated bit or SDS setup is a better fit.
Choose by brick or block
Brick varies from soft, older units to hard, dense face brick. If you are unsure, start with a sharp bit and drill slowly in rotary mode for the first half-inch. If progress is very slow, switch to hammer mode only if both the bit and drill are rated for it. On brittle or glazed brick, rotary mode can reduce chipping. Avoid drilling too close to an edge; a practical starting point is at least 1 inch from the edge, more for large holes or weak masonry.
Concrete block is often hollow, with a thin face shell and voids behind it. Drill only as deep as the anchor requires, and avoid letting the bit suddenly break through the shell. For light fixtures, a sleeve or plastic plug may be enough; heavy loads need anchors designed for hollow block or a fastening point in solid material. A standard concrete anchor that depends on solid material may not hold reliably in a hollow cell.
For dense poured concrete, especially with steel reinforcement, use a rotary hammer and an SDS-Plus bit for regular drilling. A hammer drill can make small holes, but it is slower and transfers more strain to the user and tool. If a bit stops abruptly, do not keep leaning on it: you may have reached rebar. Move the hole if the installation allows, rather than grinding at the steel with a masonry bit.
Match bit size to the anchor
Follow the anchor maker’s stated hole diameter and depth. A common mismatch is using a bit that is slightly oversized: the anchor then spins, pulls out, or never develops its intended grip. For example, if an anchor calls for a 1/4-inch hole, use a sharp 1/4-inch bit, not the nearest larger size. Mark the required depth on the bit with tape or use the drill’s depth stop.
Clear dust from the hole before setting the anchor. Dust left inside reduces holding power, especially for expansion anchors. Use a bulb blower or vacuum, and wear eye protection; masonry dust is hazardous to breathe. If drilling overhead or indoors, use dust collection or a suitable respirator rather than relying on a quick burst of compressed air.
Drilling without ruining the bit
Secure the workpiece if possible, hold the drill square, and let the bit cut without forcing it. Excessive pressure heats the carbide tip and can slow the cut. Withdraw the bit every few seconds to clear dust, particularly in deeper holes. If the bit gets hot, let it cool; quenching a hot bit in water can damage it.
Use hammer mode only with a hammer-rated bit. A regular rotary-only masonry bit can chip or loosen its carbide tip under repeated impact. Conversely, a hammer drill’s impact action is not the same as an impact driver’s. Do not use a hex masonry bit in an impact driver unless its maker explicitly rates it for that tool; impact drivers can break unsuitable bits and make precise hole placement harder.
What to buy for a typical home job
For a few shelves, house numbers, or cable clips in brick or block, a small set of round-shank carbide-tipped masonry bits is the economical choice, provided the bits match your drill and are rated for the mode you plan to use. Buy the exact diameter required by the anchor rather than relying on a mixed set to include it.
If you already own a hammer drill and expect to drill many holes, choose a hammer-drill-rated masonry bit set. For frequent work in hard concrete or holes larger than about 3/8 inch, an SDS-Plus bit paired with a rotary hammer is usually faster and less tiring. There is little benefit in buying that setup just to make two small holes in soft block.
Replace a bit when the tip is visibly rounded or chipped, the hole takes much longer than it used to, or the bit wanders despite steady pressure. A fresh, correctly sized bit is often a better fix than pushing harder or switching to a larger drill.