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For a few small holes in brick or concrete, a hammer drill is usually the sensible first choice. A rotary hammer drills faster and with less effort, but its size, weight and cost are hard to justify for occasional anchor holes. The right choice depends on the wall, the hole diameter and depth, and how many holes you need to make.
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The basic difference
A hammer drill spins the bit while adding short, rapid impacts. That action helps a masonry bit grind through hard material, but you still need to press the tool forward. It uses standard round-shank bits in a three-jaw chuck, so it can also work as a regular drill.
A rotary hammer uses a piston-driven mechanism to strike the bit more forcefully. The impacts do more of the work, which is why the tool advances more readily in concrete. Most use SDS-Plus bits, which slide into the chuck and move slightly as they’re struck. That makes drilling easier, but SDS bits and the tool itself are less convenient for general-purpose drilling.
Which tool fits the job?
| Factor | Hammer drill | Rotary hammer |
|---|---|---|
| Best fit | A few small holes in brick, block or softer concrete | Repeated holes in hard concrete or masonry |
| Typical anchor-hole range | About 1/8 to 3/8 inch, depending on the tool and material | Commonly 1/4 to 1/2 inch and larger, with the right bit |
| Effort | More pushing and slower progress in dense concrete | Less pushing; generally faster in concrete |
| Chuck and bits | Three-jaw chuck; round-shank masonry bits | Usually SDS-Plus chuck; SDS bits |
| Trade-off | More versatile for ordinary drilling; can struggle in hard concrete | Better at masonry work; bulkier and less versatile for everyday drilling |
When a hammer drill is enough
Choose a hammer drill if you’re installing a handful of small plastic or masonry anchors in brick, concrete block or relatively soft concrete. For example, four holes around 1/4 inch wide and 1 to 2 inches deep are a reasonable job for a good cordless hammer drill with a sharp masonry bit. Expect slower progress in hard, dense concrete than in brick or block.
A cordless hammer drill is a practical buy if you also need a tool for wood, metal or general home projects. The hammer mode is useful when needed, but the tool remains a standard drill when it’s switched off. A cheaper drill with a hammer setting may be fine for occasional holes; battery size and bit quality matter more than chasing a high impact rate.
Its limits show up when the bit stops advancing, the tool gets hot, or you find yourself leaning hard on it. Excessive pressure can make control worse and wear the bit or chuck. If one small hole takes several minutes in concrete, or you have a dozen more to go, switching tools is usually better than forcing the issue.
When to step up to a rotary hammer
Use a rotary hammer for multiple holes in poured concrete, deeper holes, or larger anchors that need a wider diameter. It’s also the better choice when the hammer drill can’t make steady progress. The tool’s stronger blows reduce the effort of drilling and can make a row of holes far less tiring.
A cordless SDS-Plus rotary hammer is a common step up for household anchor work. It needs SDS-Plus bits, so factor those into the cost. Many models also offer a rotation-stop setting for light chiseling, but that feature isn’t necessary just to drill anchor holes.
For one or two small holes, renting or borrowing a rotary hammer may make more sense than buying one. It’s a specialist tool for someone who doesn’t already have masonry work lined up, and its added power does not make every installation better. For delicate tile or brittle masonry, controlled drilling and the right technique matter more than raw force.
Bit size and anchor fit
Match the bit diameter to the anchor manufacturer’s instructions—not to the screw. A common plastic wall plug may call for a 1/4-inch hole, while another anchor of similar length may require a different size. Check the package, and use the specified drill depth. Too-small holes make anchors difficult to insert; too-large holes can leave them loose and unable to grip.
Use a masonry bit with a carbide tip, and replace it when the tip is worn or drilling slows noticeably. A blunt bit can wander, overheat and leave a rough, oversized hole. Mark the depth on the bit with tape if it has no depth stop. Clear dust from the hole before inserting the anchor; masonry dust left inside can prevent a plug from seating fully.
Drilling safely and cleanly
Check for wiring and plumbing before drilling, especially near outlets, switches and sinks. Wear eye protection: masonry dust and fragments can fly even when the hole is small. Hold the drill square to the wall, start slowly enough to keep the bit from skating, then maintain steady pressure. Don’t force the tool if the bit binds.
On tile or another delicate surface, avoid hammer mode until the bit has passed through the fragile finish; hammering too early can crack it. Some installations call for a tile bit first, followed by a masonry bit in the material behind it. Follow the anchor instructions, and don’t treat an anchor rated for drywall as suitable for concrete or brick.
A simple buying rule
For occasional small anchor holes, buy or use a hammer drill if you also need a versatile drill and your walls are brick, block or modestly hard concrete. Pick a rotary hammer when concrete is dense, holes are numerous or deep, or the smaller tool is making you push hard without progress. For a one-off job, borrowing or renting the stronger tool can be the cheaper, more comfortable option.