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For small anchor holes in brick, block, or concrete, a cordless hammer drill is usually the right first choice. It is smaller, cheaper, and easier to control than a rotary hammer. A rotary hammer earns its keep when the masonry is hard, the hole count is high, or you need holes larger than roughly 1/2 inch.
The important distinction is how each tool creates impact. A hammer drill uses toothed clutch plates to produce a rapid vibration along the bit. A rotary hammer uses a piston and normally takes SDS-Plus bits. That piston delivers much harder blows, so it drills concrete faster with less pressure—but it is also more tool than many small wall-anchor jobs require.
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Which tool fits small anchor holes?
For common plastic expansion anchors, masonry screws, and small sleeve anchors, choose a cordless hammer drill if you already own compatible batteries. A typical 18V or 20V model can make 1/4-inch, 5/16-inch, and 3/8-inch holes in brick or block without difficulty. It can also drill ordinary holes in wood and metal when switched out of hammer mode.
A rotary hammer is the better buy when you regularly drill concrete, need many holes in one session, or install anchors that require 1/2-inch holes and larger. It is particularly useful for reinforced or dense poured concrete, where a hammer drill may spin for a long time while making very little progress.
| Factor | Hammer drill | Rotary hammer |
|---|---|---|
| Best small-hole range | 1/4 to 3/8 inch | 1/4 to 1/2 inch and larger |
| Typical bit system | Standard chuck with round-shank masonry bits | SDS-Plus bits |
| Brick and block | Fast enough for occasional holes | Very fast, sometimes unnecessarily aggressive |
| Hard concrete | Slow to marginal | Clearly superior |
| Control around fragile masonry | Better | More likely to chip or crack the surface |
| General-purpose use | Good for drilling, driving, and hammer drilling | Usually limited for normal screwdriving |
When a hammer drill is enough
Use a hammer drill for a few anchors in brick, concrete block, mortar joints, or relatively soft concrete. It is also the safer choice for small holes near a masonry edge. The lower impact energy gives you more control and reduces the chance of blowing out the back of a brick or breaking a thin section of block.
Do not expect it to behave like a miniature demolition tool. A 1/4-inch hole may take 10 to 30 seconds in ordinary brick, depending on the bit and the material. A 3/8-inch hole in hard concrete can take considerably longer. If the bit has made almost no progress after about a minute, stop leaning harder on the drill. The bit may be dull, the material may be unusually hard, or you may have hit aggregate or reinforcing steel.
For a hammer drill, buy quality carbide-tipped masonry bits rather than the cheapest multi-piece set. A blunt tip produces heat, dust, and slow progress. A carbide masonry bit set covering the anchor sizes you actually use is more useful than a large set with poorly sized bits.
When a rotary hammer pays off
A rotary hammer is justified for repeated concrete work: mounting shelving systems, fastening ledger components, installing handrails, or drilling dozens of holes for a project. Its impact mechanism removes material efficiently, and the SDS-Plus chuck lets the bit slide slightly while striking. You apply steady pressure instead of forcing the tool.
For small anchors, its main advantage is speed and reduced effort. A 5/16-inch hole that takes 20 seconds with a hammer drill may take only a few seconds with a rotary hammer. That does not automatically make it the better tool. A rotary hammer is heavier, louder, and more expensive. Its impact can chip glazed brick, loosen weak mortar, or enlarge a hole if you wobble the tool.
Many cordless rotary hammers have a rotation-only mode, but they are not a substitute for a compact drill driver. The tool is designed around impact drilling and typically has less convenient clutch control for driving screws. If you need one tool for pilot holes, cabinet hardware, wood, metal, and occasional masonry, the hammer drill is more versatile.
Choose the bit and anchor together
Match the hole diameter to the anchor manufacturer’s instructions, not just to the screw diameter. A plastic anchor may require a 1/4-inch hole for a 3/16-inch screw, while a different anchor of the same screw size may require 5/16 inch. An undersized hole can prevent the anchor from seating; an oversized hole may let it spin or pull out.
Drill at least 1/4 inch deeper than the anchor’s embedment length so dust and debris do not bottom out the anchor. For a 1-1/2-inch anchor, a hole around 1-3/4 inches deep is a practical starting point, provided you are not approaching the other side of a block or thin wall. Mark the depth on the bit with tape.
Use rotation-only mode when drilling wood or metal. Hammer mode is for masonry only. For standard round-shank bits, do not use a normal twist bit on concrete; it will overheat quickly and may lose its edge. For an SDS-Plus tool, use the correct SDS-Plus masonry bits, not a round-shank bit held in an adapter.
Drill the hole with fewer failures
Check for wiring and plumbing before drilling. Start slowly to establish the location, then increase speed while keeping the tool square to the surface. Let the bit do the cutting; heavy pressure can stall a cordless drill and polish the masonry instead of removing it.
Withdraw the bit every few seconds on deeper holes to clear dust. This matters especially in brick and block, where packed dust can prevent the anchor from reaching full depth. Vacuum or blow out the hole, but wear eye protection—compressed air sends abrasive dust back toward your face.
Keep at least 2 inches from an unsupported masonry edge when possible, and avoid drilling directly into a mortar joint if the fastener needs high pull-out strength. Mortar is often softer and may crumble under load. On hollow block, use an anchor designed for hollow masonry rather than assuming a standard plastic plug will hold.
The practical buying decision
Buy a cordless SDS-Plus rotary hammer if hard concrete and repeated holes are normal parts of your work. Otherwise, a cordless hammer drill plus good carbide bits covers most small-anchor jobs at lower cost and with better all-around usefulness.
If you only need two or three holes in masonry, renting a rotary hammer is often unnecessary. Use the hammer drill you have, buy a fresh bit, and take your time. The tool matters, but correct anchor sizing, adequate depth, dust removal, and sound masonry matter just as much.