What's inside
- Choose SDS-Plus for most home and renovation work; step up to SDS-Max when large holes, heavy chiseling or repeated drilling demand the extra capacity.
- SDS-Plus vs. SDS-Max at a glance
- What the numbers mean for holes and anchors
- Pick by the job, not just by maximum capacity
- Budget for the system, not just the drill
- Bits, wear and common mistakes
- Bottom line
- Choose SDS-Plus for most home and renovation work; step up to SDS-Max when large holes, heavy chiseling or repeated drilling demand the extra capacity.
- SDS-Plus vs. SDS-Max at a glance
- What the numbers mean for holes and anchors
- Pick by the job, not just by maximum capacity
- Budget for the system, not just the drill
- Bits, wear and common mistakes
- Bottom line
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What we cover
- Choose SDS-Plus for most home and renovation work; step up to SDS-Max when large holes, heavy chiseling or repeated drilling demand the extra capacity.
- SDS-Plus vs. SDS-Max at a glance
- What the numbers mean for holes and anchors
- Pick by the job, not just by maximum capacity
- Budget for the system, not just the drill
- Bits, wear and common mistakes
- Bottom line
Choose SDS-Plus for most home and renovation work; step up to SDS-Max when large holes, heavy chiseling or repeated drilling demand the extra capacity.
An SDS drill’s shank system is only part of the decision: match the tool’s impact energy and stated drilling capacity to the hole sizes and anchors you’ll actually use. SDS-Plus tools accept bits with a 10 mm shank; SDS-Max tools use an 18 mm shank and are built for bigger, harder work. The bits and accessories are not interchangeable.
SDS-Plus vs. SDS-Max at a glance
| Class | Shank diameter | Typical impact energy | Practical concrete hole range | Best fit |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SDS-Plus | 10 mm | About 1.5–5 J | About 4–26 mm; many models list a maximum near 28–32 mm | Anchors, small fixings, occasional chiseling, general renovation |
| SDS-Max | 18 mm | About 8–20 J | About 12–40 mm; some models are rated for larger holes | Large anchors, service penetrations, structural drilling and frequent chiseling |
These are broad ranges, not a promise that every drill in a class can handle every listed diameter. Manufacturers’ capacities vary by model and by whether the hole is drilled with a solid bit, a core bit or a tunnel bit. Check the tool’s manual for the recommended range, particularly at the upper end. A maximum capacity is not necessarily a sensible everyday working size.
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What the numbers mean for holes and anchors
SDS-Plus: small and medium fixings
For common masonry jobs—shelf brackets, conduit clips, light-duty frames and many general-purpose wall plugs—SDS-Plus is usually the more practical choice. Typical bit sizes fall around 6–16 mm, with heavier Plus models covering larger holes when the manufacturer allows it. It also suits many concrete screw and expansion-anchor pilot holes, provided the bit diameter and embedment depth match the anchor maker’s instructions.
For example, drilling a few 6–12 mm holes for ordinary fixings doesn’t justify carrying a larger SDS-Max tool. A Plus rotary hammer is generally lighter and easier to control overhead, and Plus bits are widely available in everyday sizes. For repeated holes near the tool’s maximum rating, however, expect slower progress and more strain than with a suitable Max machine.
SDS-Max: larger holes and tougher workloads
SDS-Max is intended for work such as drilling larger anchor holes, running substantial services through concrete and breaking out masonry with chisels. Depending on the model and bit, capacities around 20–40 mm in solid concrete are common territory; specialist bits and core-drilling setups may cover larger openings, but check compatibility and the tool’s instructions.
Many common medium-to-large expansion anchors use holes that an SDS-Max drill can handle, but the anchor size alone doesn’t determine the required tool. Follow the specified hole diameter and depth, and account for the concrete, drilling orientation and number of holes. For a small number of holes, a powerful SDS-Plus model may be enough; for repeated large-diameter drilling or sustained chiseling, Max offers more headroom.
Pick by the job, not just by maximum capacity
| Your situation | Likely choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Occasional 6–12 mm holes for wall plugs or light fixings | SDS-Plus, roughly 1.5–3 J | A smaller, easier-to-handle tool fits the work without paying for unused capacity. |
| Regular anchor holes around 10–20 mm, plus occasional light chiseling | SDS-Plus, roughly 2.5–5 J | A stronger Plus tool gives useful reserve while retaining access to common bit sizes. |
| Frequent holes above roughly 20–25 mm in concrete | SDS-Max, often 8 J or more | The larger system is designed for higher-impact work and larger bits. |
| Repeated chiseling, demolition or large service penetrations | SDS-Max; consider a dedicated breaker for sustained demolition | More impact energy helps, but a rotary hammer is not automatically the right tool for all-day breaking. |
| Mostly wood or metal, with only rare masonry holes | A standard drill/driver, or an SDS-Plus drill if concrete work is significant | SDS rotary hammers are specialized masonry tools; check that the model has a suitable non-hammer mode before using it on other materials. |
Joules describe impact energy per blow, not how quickly every hole will be completed. Bit sharpness, concrete hardness, the machine’s impact rate, operator pressure and dust removal all affect progress. More joules also mean more reaction force: a high-energy tool can be tiring and harder to control if the bit binds. Use the side handle and the manufacturer’s recommended operating technique.
Budget for the system, not just the drill
SDS-Plus generally has the lower entry cost: the tool is commonly more affordable, and everyday bits are easy to find. SDS-Max machines and accessories tend to cost more and weigh more. Market prices vary widely by corded or cordless design, battery platform, included accessories and tool class; compare complete kits rather than bare-tool prices alone.
Before choosing cordless, consider how many large holes you expect to drill per charge. Heavy percussion work can consume battery capacity quickly, and a second battery may matter more than a small difference in the tool’s advertised joules. For occasional work near an outlet, a corded tool can avoid battery investment. For frequent professional use, weigh mobility against the cost of batteries and chargers already compatible with your tools.
Also check the tool’s modes. A rotary hammer usually offers hammer drilling, rotation-only and often hammer-only operation, but configurations differ. If you need to drill wood or metal, confirm that the model permits rotation-only use and that you have the correct chuck or accessory. A simple adapter does not turn an SDS tool into a purpose-built drill press or guarantee precise work.
Bits, wear and common mistakes
- Don’t force a small tool through a large hole. Working continually at a model’s maximum stated capacity can make drilling slow and put extra load on the tool and bit. Move up a class when large holes are routine.
- Don’t run a blunt or damaged bit. Worn carbide tips and bent bits drill poorly and can increase vibration. Replace them when cutting performance drops or damage is visible.
- Keep the shank clean. Wipe off dust and debris and apply lubricant only as directed by the tool or bit maker. Grit at the connection increases wear; too much grease can attract it.
- Clear dust from deep holes. Withdraw the bit periodically to clear dust, and use appropriate dust extraction where practical. Dust buildup can slow drilling and make it harder to achieve the specified anchor depth.
- Check the substrate and hidden services. Reinforcing steel, electrical wiring, pipes and masonry condition can change the safe approach. Stop if the bit catches unexpectedly, and use suitable detection and protective equipment.
For anchor installations, the hole must match the anchor’s specified diameter and depth. An oversized, shallow or dusty hole can compromise the fit even if the drill is powerful enough. The right SDS class makes the hole efficiently; careful sizing and installation make it useful.
Bottom line
For most homeowners and general renovators drilling common fixing holes up to roughly 16 mm, SDS-Plus is the sensible starting point. Choose a more powerful Plus model if you regularly drill larger anchor holes or do occasional chiseling. Choose SDS-Max when large-diameter concrete holes, heavy chiseling or sustained high-volume work are routine—not simply because its maximum number looks better on a spec sheet.