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Choose the anchor for the load
The right masonry anchor depends on what you’re attaching, the condition of the brick or block, and whether the load pulls straight out or hangs down. A light hose guide and a loaded wall cabinet do not call for the same fastener. Before buying, check the fixture’s weight, the number of anchor points, and the anchor maker’s stated limits for the specific masonry type. Ratings vary, and an anchor suitable for solid concrete may perform poorly in hollow block.
For light-duty jobs, a masonry screw or plastic plug is often enough. For heavier loads, use a mechanical expansion anchor only in solid material, or choose a fastening system designed for hollow block. If failure could injure someone or damage valuable equipment, use a rated system and follow its installation instructions rather than relying on a general rule of thumb.
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Compare common anchor types
| Anchor type | Best suited to | Main trade-off | Typical drilling approach |
|---|---|---|---|
| Masonry screw | Light to medium-duty fixtures in sound brick or concrete | Removable, but needs the correct pilot hole and enough edge distance | Drill the diameter and depth specified by the manufacturer |
| Plastic plug and screw | Light-duty hooks, clips, and small brackets | Inexpensive, but limited holding power; unreliable in crumbly or hollow masonry | Match the bit to the plug, not just the screw |
| Expansion anchor | Heavier loads in solid concrete or solid masonry | Strong when installed correctly, but expansion can crack weak material | Use the specified hole size and embedment |
| Hollow-block anchor | Fixtures attached to hollow concrete block | Requires a compatible anchor and careful placement in the block face or web | Follow the product instructions; avoid hammer action if it damages the block |
Masonry screws for everyday fixing
Masonry screws cut or form threads in a predrilled hole. They’re a practical choice for shelves, brackets, and other moderate loads when the masonry is sound and the screw’s published rating suits the job. They can also be removed more easily than many expansion anchors, though repeated removal may wear the hole and reduce grip.
Buy the screw and drill bit as a matched system when possible. A hole that is too small can make driving difficult or split a weak brick; one that is too large can leave the screw spinning without gripping. Clear dust from the hole, keep the drill square, and stop if the screw binds. For a general assortment, compare masonry screw kits with the specified drill bit.
Plastic plugs are fine for light loads
A plastic plug is a sensible low-cost option for small, low-consequence attachments, such as a light cable clip or picture hook. It is not a substitute for a rated heavy-duty anchor. In solid brick, a correctly sized plug can work well; in hollow block, the plug may expand into a void and hold poorly. Soft, sandy brick can also crumble around the plug.
Choose the plug based on the substrate and the screw size, and use the recommended bit diameter. Don’t assume a longer screw will fix a loose or oversized hole. If the plug turns as you tighten, or the screw pulls out with modest hand pressure, stop and use a suitable new hole or a different anchor system.
Solid concrete and solid brick
Expansion anchors and masonry screws can both work in solid material, but they behave differently. An expansion anchor presses outward against the sides of its hole. That can provide a strong hold in sound concrete, but the outward force may crack a narrow brick, a weak block, or material close to an edge. Keep clear of edges and joints by the distances required by the anchor maker.
Masonry screws avoid the same expansion mechanism, but they still need adequate embedment and sound material. Avoid drilling too close to a mortar joint unless the fastener instructions specifically allow it; mortar is often weaker and less consistent than the brick or block. If you need a range of sizes for solid masonry, look at rated concrete expansion anchors and compare their required hole diameter, embedment, and load data rather than choosing by appearance.
Hollow concrete block needs a different plan
Hollow block has thin face shells and internal webs, with voids between them. A conventional expansion anchor placed in a void may have nothing solid to expand against. Even an anchor that catches the face shell can break through if overtightened or overloaded. Use an anchor specifically listed for hollow block, and place it where the installation instructions call for—often in the face shell rather than a joint.
For heavier or safety-critical attachments, a through-bolt with an accessible backing plate, or a chemical anchoring system approved for the block, may be more appropriate. These options take more work and may require access to the back of the wall or careful installation. Don’t fill a void with improvised material and treat it as solid concrete.
Drill the hole correctly
Use a sharp masonry bit of the specified diameter. A hammer drill speeds work in concrete and solid brick, but hammer action can chip soft brick or break a thin block face shell. Start without hammer action when the surface is fragile, then add it only if the material tolerates it and the anchor instructions permit it. A regular drill can handle small holes in softer masonry, but it may struggle in dense concrete; forcing it can overheat the bit and motor.
Set a depth stop or mark the bit so the hole is deep enough for the anchor without drilling unnecessarily far. Keep the drill straight, pause to clear dust, and clean the finished hole as directed. Masonry dust left inside can stop an anchor seating fully and reduce holding strength. Wear eye protection and a suitable dust mask, especially indoors.
Avoid common installation failures
The usual causes of failure are the wrong anchor for hollow material, an oversized or dusty hole, insufficient embedment, overtightening, and placement too close to an edge. If the anchor spins, pulls out, or visibly damages the masonry, don’t simply tighten harder. Move to sound material and choose a system suited to the substrate. For important loads, install a test anchor in a comparable spot or have the fastening specified by a qualified professional.
When the job is light, a basic plug may be all you need. When the load is substantial, the extra cost of a correctly rated anchor—and the right drill bit—is cheaper than repairing a failed fixture or damaged wall.