Key takeaways
- The drill in most bundles is fine; the bit tray is where the corners got cut, so here is how I judge a cordless drill kit with drill bits before it leaves the shelf.
What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Most people buy a cordless drill kit with drill bits because it feels like one decision instead of two. One box, one price, drill and bits, done. A month later they are leaning on a stud with a bit that quit cutting after four holes, blaming the drill. It usually isn’t the drill.
I drill holes for a living, so here is the short version. The tool in these bundles is usually fine. The bit assortment is where the money got saved, and the bits are the part that touches the material. Know which half of the box you are paying for and a kit is a good buy. Miss that and you own 108 pieces with nothing that cuts steel.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date shown and are subject to change.
Sort Kits by What They Can Physically Do
Piece counts on the front of the box tell you almost nothing. Capability does. There are four honest categories, and picking the right one solves most of the problem before you ever compare brands.
| Kit type | What it is really for | What to watch | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12V brushless drill/driver and bit set | Cabinets, shelves, hinges, electrical boxes | Bogs down on hole saws and big spade bits | |
| 18V/20V brushless drill/driver and bit set | Remodeling, decks, most homeowner work | Heavier overhead | included bits are basic |
| 18V/20V hammer drill kit | Anchors in brick, block, mortar, concrete | Hammer mode does nothing in wood or steel | |
| Drill and impact driver combo | Drilling plus long screws and lags | Bit trays lean heavy on driver inserts | |
| Drill with 100-plus piece accessory set | A first kit for a new house | Piece count padded with screwdriver bits |
What a Cordless Drill Kit With Drill Bits Should Include
On the tool side I want five things. A brushless motor, because it holds torque when a spade bit grabs and it stretches a small pack. A two-speed gearbox, since no single speed range serves both a 1/16 in. twist bit and a 2 in. hole saw. A 1/2 in. all-metal keyless chuck you can crank one-handed. A clutch with real detents you can feel. And two batteries, so the charger is never the bottleneck.
A 2.0Ah pack keeps the drill light for overhead and cabinet work. A 4.0Ah or larger is what you want when boring a run of holes with an auger or hole saw. Two small packs is not a defect, it just tells you what the kit was built for. I take a hard case over a bag, because a bag lets a loose bit tray empty itself into the bottom.
Brushless 18V/20V Drill Kit With Bit Set
If you are only buying one drill, this is the shape of kit to buy. Established lines like DeWalt XR, Milwaukee FUEL and Makita LXT all cover it, so pick the battery platform you can keep feeding.
Read the Bit Tray, Not the Piece Count
A 108-piece set is usually a dozen drill bits and ninety-odd screwdriver inserts. Count the pieces that actually make holes before you decide the value is there.
Twist bits in black oxide or bright HSS handle wood, plastic and mild steel. Look for a 135-degree split point: it starts on a curved surface without walking and needs less push than a 118-degree tip. Cobalt (M35) is for stainless and anything that shrugged off HSS. Titanium-coated bits are HSS with a thin skin, fine while it lasts and gone the first time you overheat them. Brad-point bits give clean, centered holes in wood. Spade or auger bits take over above 1/2 in. Carbide-tipped masonry bits for anchors, a step bit for sheet metal and knockouts, and a couple of countersinks.
Sizes beat variety. 1/16 in. through 1/4 in. in 64ths covers nearly every pilot hole, then 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2 in. for bolts and lags. Buy doubles of 3/32 in. and 1/8 in., because those are the ones that snap.
Cobalt Twist Bit Set, 135-Degree Split Point
The cheapest real upgrade to any bundle. Cobalt holds an edge in stainless and hardened screws, and a split point means no center punch on flat stock.
Speed, Pressure and Pilot Holes
Gear selection is the habit most people skip. High gear is for small bits up to about 1/4 in. in wood, plastic and thin sheet. Low gear is for anything large, anything hard, and all driving. Bigger bit, slower speed: a 1/16 in. bit in pine can run wide open, while a 2 in. hole saw in a door should be crawling with the trigger feathered.
In steel, slow and firm beats fast and gentle. You want chips, not dust. Dust and smoke means you are burnishing the hole and work-hardening the surface, and that bit is done. A drop of cutting oil in any metal hole over 1/8 in. doubles bit life for pennies. Keep pressure steady and only heavy enough to keep the cutting edges engaged. Back out every half inch in deep wood holes to clear chips, and in masonry pull the bit most of the way out a few times so packed dust does not cook the carbide. Hammer mode goes on for brick, block and concrete, and stays off for tile, wood and steel.
For pilot holes, match the pilot to the screw’s root diameter, not the thread. In oak, trim or a deck ledger, drill the pilot the full depth of the screw and add a clearance hole through the top board so the threads pull the joint tight instead of jacking it apart. Hinges get a self-centering bit, not a guess. Set the clutch low, drive until it slips, then bump it up one notch.
- ✔ One purchase and you are drilling the same day
- ✔ Case keeps bits sorted instead of loose in a drawer
- ✔ Two batteries usually cost less bundled than bought separately
- ✔ Included masonry and spade bits are genuinely usable
- ✘ Piece counts padded with screwdriver inserts
- ✘ Small twist bits dull fast in anything harder than pine
- ✘ Kits often ship the smallest batteries in the lineup
- ✘ No cobalt bits, so stainless will stop you cold
When to Skip the Bundle
If you already own batteries, buy the bare tool and a separate bit set. Same money, better bits. Starting from nothing, the bundle is the honest choice, but choose the platform first and the drill second, because you are marrying the batteries. If there is a masonry wall anywhere in your plans, get the hammer drill version now.
Cordless Hammer Drill Kit With Bits
Worth the small premium if concrete anchors are in your future. Hammer mode switches off, so you lose nothing on wood, and you gain a side handle you will be glad of.
FAQ
Are the bits in a cordless drill kit good enough to keep? The masonry and spade bits usually are. The small twist bits are the first thing I replace. Treat the tray as a starter set that shows you which sizes you actually reach for.
Do I need an impact driver as well? Only if you run a lot of long screws or lag bolts. An impact driver is not a drill: it takes 1/4 in. hex shanks and it snaps small twist bits.
12V or 18V for a first kit? 18V or 20V max if you own one drill, since it does everything at the cost of weight. 12V if most of your work is cabinets, furniture and tight bays where a subcompact fits and your wrist lasts longer.
Pick the platform you can live with, stay in low gear more often than feels natural, and put twenty dollars into decent twist bits. That combination fixes most of what people blame on their drill.
Check prices on Amazon →