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A hammer drill can make quick work of brick and concrete, but leaning on it harder is not the way to keep the bit cool. Friction builds when the cutting edges stop clearing dust, the bit dulls, or the hole is drilled too fast. Heat can damage the bit’s carbide tip, burn your fingers, and make the drill work harder than it should.
Use short drilling intervals, clear the dust, and choose the right bit for the material. These habits matter more than buying the most expensive drill for an occasional shelf or curtain-rod installation.
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Know the tool and bit
A hammer drill rotates the bit while pulsing it forward. That action is meant for masonry such as brick, block, and concrete—not wood, metal, or tile. Switch hammer mode off for those materials. For large holes or repeated drilling in dense concrete, a rotary hammer is generally a better tool; its stronger hammering mechanism gets the job done with less pressure from you.
Use a masonry bit rated for hammer drilling, with a carbide tip. Match its shank to the drill’s chuck and its diameter to the anchor or fastener instructions. A bit that is too small can leave an anchor loose; one that is too large can make it spin in the hole. If you’re outfitting a basic kit, a carbide-tipped masonry bit set is enough for many home jobs. A cheap set is reasonable for occasional holes in brick, but expect it to dull sooner than a quality bit in hard concrete.
Set up before drilling
Check the drill’s instructions for the correct mode, speed, and maximum bit size. Set the clutch to drill mode, not a low screw-driving setting, and select hammer action only for masonry. Clamp the workpiece if it can shift. For a wall, check for electrical wiring and plumbing before drilling, and wear eye protection; masonry dust and chips can fly back toward your face.
Mark the hole and start at a right angle to the wall. If the bit wanders on smooth masonry, begin with light pressure and, if needed, make a small starting mark with a masonry nail and hammer. Set the depth stop if the drill has one. Otherwise, wrap a piece of tape around the bit at the target depth. For a wall anchor, follow its specified hole depth rather than guessing.
Drill in short intervals
Keep a firm, two-handed grip and let the drill’s hammering do the work. Press steadily, but don’t bear down with your body weight. Excess pressure can stall the bit, slow its dust-clearing flutes, and increase heat. Start at a controlled speed; raise it only if the bit is cutting cleanly and the drill is not struggling.
For a typical anchor hole, drill for about 5 to 10 seconds, then pull the bit out while it is still turning slowly to clear dust. Pause for a few seconds and repeat. In hard concrete, use shorter bursts and more frequent dust clearing. The exact pace depends on the drill, bit, and masonry, so treat those times as a starting point—not a rule that overrides a hot bit or a struggling tool.
Stop if the bit tip is too hot to touch, the drill smells hot, or cutting slows sharply. Let the bit cool naturally. Don’t quench it in water: sudden cooling can damage the carbide tip or loosen its bond. If the bit is stuck, release the trigger and back it out carefully; don’t keep running the drill against a jam.
Clear dust and watch for warning signs
Dust packs into the hole and the flutes, where it increases friction and makes the bit cut less efficiently. Withdraw the bit often enough to clear it, especially as the hole gets deeper. A vacuum with a suitable nozzle can collect dust at the hole; for an anchor installation, clean the hole as its instructions require. Never blow masonry dust toward your face.
Back off or stop when you notice a burning smell, smoke, unusually hot chuck, blue discoloration, repeated battery cutouts, or a bit that takes much longer to advance than it did at the start. These signs may point to a dull bit, packed dust, excessive pressure, a weak battery, or concrete that is harder than the drill can handle. Let the tool cool before checking it. Replace a worn bit rather than trying to compensate by pushing harder.
Match the approach to the job
| Job or condition | What to use or do | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| A few small holes in brick or block | Hammer drill and a sharp carbide masonry bit | Low-cost and usually adequate, though slower in dense material |
| Many holes or larger holes in concrete | Consider a rotary hammer and compatible bits | Faster with less strain, but costs more and may be unnecessary for a short job |
| Holes in tile | Use a tile-rated bit with hammer mode off | Slower, but helps avoid cracking the tile |
| Small anchor holes in hard concrete | Short drilling bursts; clear dust frequently | Takes longer than continuous drilling, but reduces heat and binding |
If you are drilling several holes in dense concrete, a corded SDS-Plus rotary hammer can be a practical upgrade. It costs more and is less convenient to store than a basic hammer drill, so it’s hard to justify for two holes in soft brick. For occasional masonry work, the drill you already own and a fresh bit are often the cheaper, sensible choice.
Finish the hole and install the anchor
When you reach the marked depth, withdraw the bit while it is still turning slowly, then switch off the drill. Brush or vacuum dust from the hole according to the anchor instructions. A dusty hole can keep an anchor from gripping properly, while hammering an oversized or poorly cleaned anchor into place can crack masonry or leave the fastener loose.
If the anchor spins when you tighten the screw, stop rather than forcing it. Check that the hole diameter and depth match the anchor, and inspect the bit for wear. In crumbly masonry, move the hole if possible or choose a fastening system rated for that material. A correctly sized sharp bit, moderate pressure, and regular dust clearing will usually prevent overheating—and produce a better hole than rushing through with a hot, worn bit.