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The quick answer
For ordinary cable runs through wood studs, a drill bit is usually the right tool. Use a long auger bit or a flexible installer bit when you need to reach through a plate or drill into a hard-to-access bay. Choose a hole saw when the job calls for a large, clean opening—for example, passing a bulky connector through a cabinet panel or making a hole for a low-voltage bracket. For typical cable, a hole saw removes more wood than necessary and leaves a plug to clear.
Before drilling, confirm what is in the wall and where it is safe to make the hole. A bit that is perfect for wood can still hit wiring, plumbing, or a metal protection plate. Check both sides where possible, use a stud finder thoughtfully, and follow local rules for cable protection and fire blocking.
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Choose by hole size and access
For one or a few cables, size the opening to the cable bundle—not to the largest tool in the drawer. A 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch bit may handle a single low-voltage cable, while several cables or a larger connector may need a 3/4-inch or 7/8-inch opening. Check the cable maker’s bend-radius and installation guidance, and avoid cramming cables through a hole that scrapes or pinches their jackets.
A standard twist bit is inexpensive and works for shallow holes in accessible framing, but its short length and tendency to wander make it awkward for drilling across a wall cavity. An auger bit is more useful for framing: its screw tip pulls it into the wood, and the cutting lips clear chips. A flexible installer bit reaches into a cavity from a small access opening, but it takes practice to steer and can damage hidden materials if you drill blindly.
For a straightforward wood-stud run, compare long auger bits for wood with a standard bit before buying. A basic bit is fine for a visible, accessible hole; the longer auger earns its keep when reach and chip removal matter.
Drill bits and hole saws compared
| Tool | Best use | Typical trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Twist bit | Small holes in accessible wood | Cheap and easy to find, but often too short for framing work |
| Auger bit | Clean, deeper holes through wood studs | Fast and effective, but its screw tip can pull hard and snag |
| Flexible installer bit | Reaching through a wall cavity from a limited opening | Useful reach, but harder to steer and easier to misuse |
| Hole saw | Large, round openings for connectors or fittings | Removes a lot of wood; the cut plug can bind or need removal |
When a hole saw is the better choice
A hole saw cuts a ring rather than boring out the full center. That makes it a sensible choice for a larger opening, especially in sheet goods, cabinet sides, or a panel where a neat round hole matters. It can also make a pass-through for a pre-terminated cable when the connector will not fit through a small bit hole. Match the saw diameter to the connector and any grommet or bushing, not just the cable itself.
On a stud, a hole saw may be slower and messier than an auger. Its pilot bit starts the cut, then the teeth can catch as they enter the wood. The cutout plug may wedge inside the saw, and a wide opening can weaken framing more than needed. If you do use one, keep the drill controlled, clear chips, and stop if the saw binds. A side handle is useful on a larger cordless drill because a snag can twist the tool sharply.
For occasional large openings, an inexpensive bi-metal hole saw kit for wood and general use is often adequate. Check the kit’s depth and arbor compatibility; a shallow saw may not cut through a thick assembly in one pass.
Drill safely through the framing
In a typical stud wall, cables pass through holes near the center of the stud so they are less likely to be hit by a later screw or nail. Building rules commonly require at least 1 1/4 inches of wood between the cable hole and the framing edge; where that clearance cannot be maintained, a listed steel nail plate may be required. Requirements vary by location and installation, so check local code rather than treating a rule of thumb as permission to drill anywhere.
Keep the hole only as large as necessary. Oversized or clustered holes can weaken a stud, particularly near its edge or in a load-bearing wall. If the bit hits metal, stop. It may be a protective plate covering an existing cable or pipe. Do not force the bit through it; locate the obstruction and choose a safe route.
Use a drill in low gear for a large auger or hole saw, with a firm grip and the work supported. A drill’s clutch is not a substitute for controlling a tool that catches. Remove chips regularly, especially from an auger, since packed chips increase heat and binding. If the bit exits into a finished surface, slow down as it breaks through or drill from both sides when you can accurately line up the holes.
What to buy—and what you can skip
A regular cordless drill is generally enough for wood studs. A hammer drill’s hammer mode is for masonry, not wood; turn it off. An impact driver can turn a hex-shank bit, but its pulsing action is not the best choice for precise holes or larger bits that may grab. For a cable run, a drill with a low-speed setting and a comfortable grip is the more controlled option.
If this is a one-time job through accessible studs, buy the correctly sized bit rather than a large hole-saw kit. A basic twist bit is the budget choice for short, visible holes; an auger is worth the extra cost for deeper framing holes or repeated work. Consider a flexible installer bit only when access is genuinely restricted, and use it with a clear plan for where its tip will emerge.
Before starting, measure the cable bundle and connector, mark the hole location, and make sure the planned route avoids known services. That small amount of preparation is cheaper than replacing a damaged cable—or opening finished walls to find out what the bit hit.