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A stripped screw is usually a problem of lost bit grip, not insufficient tool power. A cordless drill can remove many damaged screws; an impact driver can help with stubborn ones, but its fast impacts can also chew the head beyond repair. Start with the least aggressive method that fits the screw, keep the bit square, and stop if the head is getting worse.
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Choose the right tool
Use a cordless drill when you need controlled, steady rotation—especially on small screws, soft wood, plastic, or a head that is only slightly damaged. Set it to reverse and use a low speed. A drill’s clutch can limit torque, though for removal you may need to set it high or switch to drill mode.
An impact driver is useful when a larger screw is stuck in dense wood or has thread-locking compound on it. Its short bursts of torque can break the screw free, but they make it easier to slip out of a damaged head. Use the lowest speed setting if your driver has one, and squeeze the trigger gradually.
| Situation | Better first choice | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Small or delicate screw | Cordless drill | More control; may not break a stubborn screw free |
| Large screw stuck in wood | Impact driver, on low speed | More torque; easier to damage the head further |
| Head badly rounded or broken off | Screw extractor or left-hand drill bit | Requires careful drilling and the right size tool |
Prepare the screw and work area
Clear debris from the recess with a pick or small brush. Check whether the head takes a Phillips, Pozidriv, Torx, square, or another drive type. A Phillips bit in a Pozidriv head, or a nearly fitting bit in any recess, can slip even when the screw is not badly stripped.
Choose a fresh, correctly sized bit that fills the recess with little side-to-side play. Worn driver bits are a common cause of slipping. A set of replacement driver bits is inexpensive insurance, but you do not need premium bits for an occasional household repair. For frequent driving or an impact driver, impact-rated bits are a sensible choice.
Clamp or support the workpiece if possible. Wear eye protection, especially if drilling metal or using an extractor. Keep the tool straight and press firmly into the screw; pressure should keep the bit engaged, not force the tool to wobble.
Try a better grip before drilling
Push the bit firmly into the head and turn counterclockwise at low speed. If you have a drill, try its clutch at a higher setting, then use drill mode if the clutch slips before the screw moves. With an impact driver, use short trigger pulses rather than holding the trigger down. Stop after a few attempts if the bit keeps climbing out: continued slipping rounds the recess further.
For a shallowly damaged head, a wide rubber band placed between the bit and screw can add friction. It is a low-cost try, not a dependable fix: it often tears or gets pushed aside, and it will not restore a badly rounded recess. Another option is to tap a slightly larger Torx bit into the damaged head with a hammer, then turn slowly by hand or with a drill. Use this only when the screw and surrounding material can tolerate the impact.
Drill out a badly stripped screw
If the head is too damaged for a driver bit, a left-hand drill bit or screw extractor may work. A left-hand drill bit and extractor set gives you both options. The cheaper extractor sets are adequate for occasional use, but extractors are hard and brittle; twisting one sideways or forcing it can snap it off in the screw, making the job much harder.
Start with a drill bit smaller than the screw’s solid core. For example, a screw with a roughly 4 mm core might take an initial hole around 2 mm, but screw dimensions vary, so check the extractor instructions and use a bit that leaves material around the hole. Center-punch the screw if you can. Drill slowly in reverse with the drill held square to the head. A left-hand bit may catch and back the screw out as it drills.
If it does not turn, switch to the extractor size specified for that pilot hole. Seat the extractor in the hole, then rotate it counterclockwise using a tap wrench or hand tool. Use steady pressure; do not run an extractor at high speed with an impact driver. If it does not bite with moderate effort, stop and reassess. More force can break it.
If the head is already standing proud, locking pliers may be simpler: grip the head firmly and turn counterclockwise. If only the head is accessible and the screw is expendable, carefully drilling off the head can release the attached part. Once the part is removed, grip the remaining shank with pliers and back it out. Protect the surrounding surface and avoid drilling into the material beneath.
Common mistakes and when to stop
Do not use a larger drill or an impact driver simply because the first attempt failed. A spinning bit can enlarge the damaged recess in seconds. Do not use a bit that is visibly worn, tilt the tool while it turns, or keep increasing force when the bit is slipping. On a small fastener, these mistakes can turn a quick repair into a drilled-out hole that needs filling or a larger replacement screw.
Stop if an extractor begins to twist, if the pilot hole wanders, or if you are close to wiring, plumbing, glass, or a finished surface you cannot replace. A screw near a sensitive component may be safer to remove with hand tools or by taking the assembly to a repair shop.
Replace the screw and prevent a repeat
After removal, inspect the hole and replace the damaged screw with the same type and a suitable length. If the old hole is stripped in wood, use a slightly larger screw only if the joint allows it; otherwise, repair the hole with an appropriate wood filler or dowel before refastening. For future jobs, start at low speed, keep the tool aligned, and stop as soon as the bit slips. A fresh, correctly matched bit usually matters more than buying a more powerful tool.