What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Large holes in studs demand more from a drill than ordinary pilot holes do. A 2-inch hole saw or 1-1/2-inch self-feed bit can stall a small drill, twist your wrist, or overheat the tool if you push too hard. The right cordless drill depends on the bit, the lumber, and how many holes you need—not just the voltage printed on the battery.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
What we cover
Choose the drill around the bit
For a few clean holes up to about 1 inch, a quality 18V or 20V drill with a 1/2-inch chuck is usually enough. For repeated holes with a 1-1/2-inch self-feed bit, a high-torque drill with a side handle is a safer, less frustrating choice. Hole saws cut more slowly and are often easier on the drill, but they can bind when the plug jams or the saw hits a knot.
Check the bit maker’s limits before drilling. A large auger or self-feed bit can catch suddenly, and the drill’s clutch is not a substitute for a side handle. Avoid using an impact driver for large wood-boring bits unless the bit is specifically designed for it; impacts can damage ordinary bits and make control less predictable.
Drill types compared
| Drill type | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Compact 18V/20V drill | Occasional holes up to roughly 1 inch | May bog down or overheat with large self-feed bits |
| High-torque drill with side handle | Repeated large holes in framing lumber | Heavier and usually more expensive |
| Right-angle drill | Large holes where access is tight | Specialized; less convenient for general drilling |
| Corded drill | Many holes in one location | Needs an outlet and extension cord |
What to buy
For routine DIY work—running a small cable or pipe through a few studs—a brushless 18V/20V drill with a 1/2-inch chuck is a sensible starting point. A model with two speeds, a strong low gear, and a removable side handle gives you useful control without buying a specialty tool. Compare brushless cordless drills with a side handle if you need one tool for both general drilling and occasional larger holes.
If large holes are frequent, prioritize a high-torque drill that includes an auxiliary handle and is rated for the bit sizes you plan to use. The handle matters: if a bit binds, the drill body can rotate hard enough to injure your wrist. A drill with electronic anti-rotation protection can help, but it does not replace a firm two-handed grip. Look at high-torque cordless drills with auxiliary handles for repeated work.
Battery size affects runtime and balance. A compact 2.0Ah pack keeps the drill lighter for overhead work; a 4.0Ah or larger pack is more useful for a run of holes. If you already own batteries in a tool platform, staying with it is often better value than buying a new system. A corded drill can be cheaper for a long, stationary job, but the cord is a nuisance around ladders, unfinished floors, and framing bays.
Pick a bit that suits the hole
A hole saw is a good choice for clean, large openings, especially where you need a specific diameter. It cuts a ring rather than removing the whole center, so it can take less effort than a large solid bit. Clear the saw’s teeth regularly; packed chips increase heat and make binding more likely. A self-feed bit drills faster through framing and clears chips well, but its aggressive screw tip can pull the drill forward and make a bind more violent. Auger bits are useful for deep holes, though long versions need careful alignment and chip clearing.
Use a sharp, purpose-made wood bit. Dull teeth raise heat, drain batteries, and encourage you to push harder. For a hole saw, an arbor with a secure pilot bit helps prevent wandering. If you need several diameters, compare wood hole-saw kits, but check the included arbor and maximum cutting depth before buying.
Drill safely and avoid common failures
Mark the center and check both sides of the stud for wiring and plumbing. In existing walls, a stud finder and a small inspection hole can reduce the risk of hitting hidden services; never assume a stud bay is clear. Keep holes centered in the stud where possible, and follow local building rules for hole size and placement. Large holes can weaken framing, particularly near stud edges or in load-bearing walls. If the proposed opening is near the maximum allowed size, check the applicable code or ask a qualified professional before drilling.
Clamp the work when practical, select low gear for a large bit, and start square at a controlled speed. Let the bit cut rather than forcing it. Back out periodically to clear chips, especially in deep holes. Keep both hands on the drill and the side handle, with your stance arranged so a sudden rotation will not pull you off balance. If the bit catches, release the trigger; do not try to muscle through a stalled drill. Let the tool and bit cool if they become hot.
The practical buying decision
For a handful of holes under about 1 inch, a regular 1/2-inch cordless drill is often the cheaper and more useful buy. For repeated 1-1/2-inch holes or larger, pay for high torque, a side handle, and a battery with enough capacity—or rent a specialty drill if the job is one-off. The wrong combination is a compact drill, an oversized aggressive bit, and a long session: it is slow, hard on the battery, and much more likely to twist out of your hands.