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What “compact” should mean for this job
For drilling plug holes in brick, a compact cordless hammer drill should be easy to hold level, have a genuine hammer-drill setting, and accept the masonry bit size your plugs require. Most common plastic wall plugs call for holes from about 5 to 10 mm. Check the plug packaging: the stated drill size matters more than the plug’s outside length.
A small 12V drill can work for occasional holes in sound brick, especially with a sharp bit and a 5 or 6 mm hole. But a compact 18V drill is the more flexible buy if you expect larger holes, dense brick, or repeated drilling. Look for a variable-speed trigger, a two-speed gearbox, a clutch for screwdriving, and a side handle if one is supplied. The side handle gives useful control when the bit catches; don’t treat it as optional on larger holes.
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Hammer drill or impact driver?
A hammer drill spins the bit while moving it forward and back rapidly. That action helps a carbide-tipped masonry bit cut into brick. An impact driver delivers rotational blows to turn fasteners; it is not a substitute for a hammer drill when making plug holes. A regular drill can bore a small hole in soft brick, but progress is slower and it is easier to overheat the bit or wander off the mark.
For a few small holes in older, softer brick, a basic cordless hammer drill is usually enough. For repeated holes, hard engineering brick, or holes above roughly 8 mm, an SDS-plus rotary hammer is faster and demands less pushing. Its trade-off is extra bulk, cost, and a different bit system. If your work is occasional, compare compact 18V cordless hammer drills before stepping up to an SDS tool.
Choosing between drill types
| Tool | Best fit | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 12V hammer drill | A few 5–6 mm holes in softer brick | Less reserve for larger or repeated holes |
| Compact 18V hammer drill | General plug installation and mixed jobs | Heavier and often more expensive than 12V |
| SDS-plus rotary hammer | Many holes, larger diameters, hard masonry | Bulkier; requires SDS-plus bits |
| Impact driver | Driving compatible screws | Not designed to drill masonry plug holes |
Features worth paying for
Don’t choose by maximum torque alone. Torque figures mainly describe twisting force, while drilling speed, hammer action, bit quality, and control determine how well a drill makes a clean hole in brick. A low-speed gear is useful for controlled starts; the faster gear is generally better for small holes once the bit is seated. A hammer-mode selector lets you switch to ordinary drilling for wood or metal. Use ordinary drilling mode—not hammer mode—on those materials.
Battery size affects handling. A compact 2.0 Ah pack keeps the tool lighter; a larger pack can reduce interruptions during a long session but adds weight. For a handful of wall plugs, a small battery is usually adequate. If you already own a battery platform, staying within it can be better value than buying a bare tool from another system.
Buy a masonry bit sized to the plug, not a general-purpose bit. A carbide-tipped masonry bit set is a sensible starting point, but replace bits that are blunt, chipped, or badly worn. A cheap drill with a fresh bit can outperform a pricier drill with a worn one.
How to make a reliable plug hole
First check what is behind the wall. Avoid drilling where wiring or pipes may run, and use an appropriate detector when the location is uncertain. Wear eye protection; brick dust and chips are common. Mark the position, then check whether you are drilling into the brick itself or a mortar joint. Brick is generally the better fixing point, but the right choice depends on the wall and the anchor.
Set the drill to hammer mode and start slowly, holding the tool square to the surface. Once the bit has made a small seat, increase speed without forcing it. Excessive pressure can stall a compact drill, overheat the bit, or make the hole wander. If progress stops, ease off and let the bit clear dust; withdraw it while it is still turning slowly if safe to do so. For a deep hole, clear dust more than once.
Use a depth stop if available, or mark the bit with tape. The hole should be deep enough for the plug, with a little extra room for dust, but not so deep that the plug disappears into the wall. Vacuum or brush out the hole before inserting the plug. Dust left inside can prevent the plug from seating fully and weaken the fixing. If the hole comes out oversized, do not rely on a plug that spins freely; move the fixing point or use an anchor specified for the damaged hole and substrate.
When a cheaper drill is fine—and when it isn’t
If you are installing a few small plugs in ordinary brick, a basic 12V hammer drill or an entry-level 18V model can do the job. Spend first on a suitable bit and the correct wall plug. A premium drill is hard to justify for a one-off shelf if the cheaper tool can maintain a straight hole at the required diameter.
Upgrade when the drill repeatedly bogs down, holes take an unreasonably long time, or you have a run of larger holes in dense brick. For those conditions, an SDS-plus rotary hammer can cut drilling time and reduce user effort. It still will not fix the wrong bit, an unsuitable plug, or a hole drilled into loose mortar. Match the anchor to the wall material and load, and follow its installation instructions rather than assuming every plastic plug is suitable for every brick wall.