What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
What we cover
What the job demands
Installing sleeve anchors in brick is less about maximum torque than drilling a straight, correctly sized hole without damaging the masonry. A cordless hammer drill is a practical choice for occasional work and lighter installation. For a full day of drilling, especially into hard brick or concrete, an SDS-plus rotary hammer is usually faster and easier on your hands.
Sleeve anchors expand against the sides of a hole as you tighten the nut. Follow the anchor maker’s instructions for drill-bit diameter, hole depth, edge distance and tightening. A hole that is too wide or crumbled at the mouth can leave the anchor spinning or pulling loose. Too shallow, and dust or debris can prevent the anchor from seating fully.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
Brick varies. Soft, old brick can break out around a hole; dense brick can make a cordless drill work hard. If the installation is safety-critical, or the brick is visibly cracked or deteriorated, check the anchor manufacturer’s guidance and consider a qualified installer rather than assuming a stronger drill will solve the problem.
Hammer drill or rotary hammer?
A standard hammer drill uses a toothed mechanism to add rapid, short impacts while the bit rotates. It is versatile and generally less expensive; switch hammer mode off for ordinary drilling and screwdriving. Its downside is that progress in masonry can be slow, and pushing hard for long periods can overheat the tool or tire you out.
An SDS-plus rotary hammer uses a different impact mechanism. It typically drills masonry faster with less pressure from the operator, and its bits lock into the chuck. That makes it a better choice for repeated or larger holes. The trade-offs are higher cost, a dedicated SDS bit system and less usefulness for routine screwdriving unless you buy a separate chuck attachment.
For a few correctly sized holes in sound brick, a capable hammer drill can be enough. If you are installing many anchors, drilling dense masonry, or repeatedly fighting to advance, an SDS-plus cordless rotary hammer is the more sensible category to consider.
Which cordless drill fits?
| Tool type | Best fit | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Compact hammer drill | A few small holes in softer brick | Slower in dense masonry; limited sustained workload |
| Full-size hammer drill | Occasional anchor jobs and general drilling | More vibration and effort than an SDS-plus tool |
| SDS-plus rotary hammer | Repeated holes, hard brick or larger bits | Higher cost and less convenient for everyday screwdriving |
When shopping for a hammer drill, compare the tool’s stated masonry capacity, weight, battery platform and warranty—not just its advertised torque. Torque figures primarily describe turning force and do not tell you how quickly a drill will make holes in brick. A brushless cordless hammer drill can be a good all-around buy if you also need it for wood, metal and fasteners, but brushless construction alone does not guarantee better masonry performance.
Battery size is a workload trade-off. A larger battery can help keep a drill working through a longer job, but it adds weight at the handle. For occasional DIY use, a smaller battery is often adequate if you can pause or swap in a charged spare. Don’t buy a larger, heavier kit solely for a handful of holes.
Bits, settings and technique
Use a sharp masonry bit of the exact diameter specified for the sleeve anchor. For a conventional hammer drill, choose a carbide-tipped masonry bit rated for hammer-drilling. For an SDS-plus rotary hammer, use a compatible SDS-plus masonry bit; an SDS bit will not fit a normal three-jaw chuck. Avoid using a worn bit just because it still looks intact: slow cutting encourages more pressure, heat and wandering.
Mark the hole locations and check the anchor instructions for minimum spacing and distance from brick edges. Brick near an edge or mortar joint can split or crumble. If the instructions allow it, drilling into the brick unit rather than a mortar joint may offer a more reliable base, but the correct placement depends on the anchor and the wall. Don’t substitute a generic rule for the product’s published requirements.
Set the drill to hammer mode for masonry and use a moderate, steady feed. Let the bit cut; pressing hard can make the tool stall, overheat or wander. Start carefully so the bit does not skate across the surface. Keep the drill aligned with the hole, and stop if the brick begins to crack or break out.
Mark the required depth on the bit with a depth stop or tape. Drill to the specified depth, then remove dust from the hole using the method recommended by the anchor manufacturer. Dust left inside can stop the anchor from seating and interfere with its grip. Insert the anchor fully and tighten to the stated requirement; excessive tightening can damage the brick or anchor.
When a cheaper drill is fine—and when it isn’t
If you already own a hammer drill and need only a few modest holes in sound brick, try it with the correct new bit before buying another tool. Work at a steady pace and give the drill breaks if the body or battery becomes hot. A basic non-hammer drill is not the right substitute for hammer drilling in masonry; it may make painfully slow progress and tempt you to force the bit.
Upgrade to an SDS-plus rotary hammer when holes take too long despite a sharp bit, the drill repeatedly stalls, or you have dozens of anchors to install. Renting one may be cheaper than buying if this is a one-time project. For the occasional light job, a cordless hammer-drill kit can cover masonry and general household work without the extra cost and bulk of a dedicated rotary hammer.
Whatever tool you choose, the anchor’s specified hole size and condition of the brick matter more than a headline power rating. If a hole is oversized, crumbling or in the wrong location, a more powerful drill will not make that installation dependable.