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Clean plywood holes come down to matching the bit to the hole size, keeping the work supported, and controlling the breakthrough. For most small holes, a sharp brad-point bit is the easy choice. For larger holes, a Forstner bit leaves a cleaner, flatter-bottomed cut; a hole saw is faster when the center slug does not matter. A regular twist bit can do the job, but it needs more care to avoid a ragged exit.
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Choose the bit for the hole
Plywood’s alternating veneer layers can chip as a bit exits, especially when the face veneer is thin or brittle. A bit with a sharp outer edge that scores the surface before cutting into it helps limit that damage. The right pick depends on diameter, depth, and whether you need a flat-bottomed hole.
| Bit type | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Brad-point | Accurate holes roughly 1/8 to 1/2 inch across | Clean, easy to position; larger sizes can be slow or hard to find |
| Forstner | Wide, clean holes and flat-bottomed recesses | Needs a steady drill and often a slower speed |
| Hole saw | Larger through-holes, commonly 3/4 inch and up | Fast, but can splinter at the exit and leaves a center plug |
| Twist | General-purpose small holes when finish quality is not critical | Can wander and tear veneer, particularly on exit |
For small, precise holes in cabinet panels, jigs, or furniture parts, a brad-point bit set is usually a sensible buy. Its center spur helps the bit stay on a pencil mark, while the cutting edges score the veneer before removing the waste. A basic set is fine for occasional work; pay more for a set if you drill often and need dependable sizing and edge life.
For larger and flat-bottomed holes
Choose a Forstner bit when the hole must have a clean rim and a flat bottom, such as a recess for hardware. Its rim cuts around the perimeter before the center material is removed. In a handheld drill, large Forstner bits can grab or steer the tool, so clamp the work and use a side handle if your drill accepts one. Start around 500 to 1,000 rpm for larger diameters, then adjust if the bit cuts smoothly without burning or chattering. Follow the bit maker’s guidance where available.
A hole saw is a practical, less expensive option for large through-holes where a flat bottom is unnecessary. It removes a circular plug, which can bind inside the saw; clear packed chips before they heat up or slow the cut. A pilot bit helps keep the saw centered, but the pilot itself can tear out the back face. For a wide, clean opening, compare Forstner bit sets with wood hole-saw kits based on whether you need a flat bottom or just a through-hole.
Set up to prevent tear-out
Support the plywood on a flat piece of scrap wood, clamped tightly beneath the drilling point. The backing board supports the veneer as the bit exits and is the most reliable way to reduce splintering on a through-hole. Keep the workpiece clamped too; holding a panel by hand is unsafe and makes the bit more likely to wander.
Mark the center clearly and use the bit’s spur or pilot point to start. If the face veneer is delicate, put painter’s tape over the mark and drill through it, but treat tape as extra help, not a replacement for backing. For a hole that must look clean on both faces, drill partway from one side until the point just appears on the back, then turn the panel over and finish from that small mark. This takes longer but avoids forcing the cutting edges through the far veneer.
Use the drill correctly
Use a standard drill or drill-driver, not hammer mode. Hammering adds impact the bit does not need and can damage the edge of the hole or the plywood face. A cordless drill is fine if its chuck holds the bit securely and the battery has enough charge to maintain a steady speed. Impact drivers are a poor first choice for this job: their pulsing drive can make a large bit harder to control, and many use hex-shank bits that are less comfortable for general drilling.
Keep the bit square to the panel. Start slowly to establish the cut, then increase speed only if the bit is cutting cleanly. With a hole saw or large Forstner bit, keep the drill’s handle firmly braced and avoid forcing the tool; a jammed cutter can twist the drill sharply. If the bit smokes, the cut is too hot—back out, clear chips, and reduce pressure. Stop if the bit wanders, catches, or starts pulling the panel.
Common mistakes and when cheaper is fine
A dull bit is a common cause of fuzzy edges: it rubs and heats the veneer instead of cutting it. Clean pitch from bits and replace them when the cutting edges are visibly rounded or the hole quality declines. Do not assume a bigger drill is better. For holes larger than about 1/2 inch, the torque and grip demands rise quickly; secure the work and use a tool you can control.
If you are making a few hidden holes for screws, a standard twist bit is often good enough. Use a sharp bit, back the panel with scrap, and drill at a controlled speed. There is little benefit in buying a premium set for one short project. For repeated visible holes, accurate locations, or expensive face-grade plywood, a brad-point set is worth the modest extra cost. Choose Forstner bits for clean, wide recesses—not simply because they look more specialized.