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Choose the right bit for the paving
For ordinary concrete or clay brick pavers, start with a carbide-tipped masonry bit sized to the hole and anchor you plan to use. A standard round-shank bit fits the chuck on most cordless drills and hammer drills. If you’ll drill many holes, an SDS-Plus bit is a better match for an SDS-Plus rotary hammer, but it will not fit a regular three-jaw chuck without an adapter.
Check the paver before buying: some paving stones are natural stone, porcelain, or unusually hard concrete, and the right bit and drilling method can differ. For a few small holes in typical pavers, a basic masonry bit is usually enough. Browse carbide-tipped masonry bit sets if you need common sizes; for repeated work, compare individual bits with longer life and better heat resistance.
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Hammer drill or rotary hammer?
A hammer drill is appropriate for occasional holes in brick paving. Its chuck rotates the bit while delivering short impacts, which helps the carbide tip break up masonry. A rotary hammer strikes more forcefully and usually drills faster, especially in thick or hard pavers, but it costs more and can be less controlled on thin material.
Use the tool’s hammer setting only on masonry. If your drill has a clutch, set it aside or use a drilling mode rather than a low-torque screw setting. Start at low speed to keep the tip from skating, then increase pressure and speed once the hole is established. Let the bit do the work: hard pushing can overheat it, damage the paver, or make the hole wander.
Bit and tool comparison
| Option | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Basic carbide masonry bit | A few anchor holes in typical pavers | Low cost; may drill slowly and wear sooner in hard material |
| Higher-quality carbide masonry bit | Several holes or dense concrete pavers | Costs more, but is less likely to blunt quickly |
| SDS-Plus masonry bit | Frequent drilling with an SDS-Plus rotary hammer | Fast and robust; requires a compatible tool |
| Hammer drill | Occasional holes and lighter work | Slower than a rotary hammer in hard masonry |
| Rotary hammer | Repeated holes or hard, thick pavers | More expensive and powerful than many small jobs require |
Match bit size to the anchor
Use the diameter specified by the anchor maker, not a guess based on the screw. A hole that is too wide gives a masonry plug or anchor a poor grip; one that is too narrow can prevent the anchor from seating or split the paver. Check the package for both the required hole diameter and minimum drilling depth. Mark the bit with tape at that depth if it has no depth stop.
For a light fixture or other small fastening job, a plastic masonry plug may be adequate when installed into sound material. For heavier loads, use an anchor rated for masonry and suitable for the actual paver thickness and base. Pavers are often laid over sand or aggregate, so an anchor that works in a solid concrete wall may not hold securely in a loose or thin paving stone. If the load matters, fastening into the underlying concrete or another structural base is often more reliable.
Drill without cracking the paver
First make sure the paver is supported firmly and cannot rock. Drilling an unsupported stone concentrates force at the hole and can crack it. If the paving is laid on a flexible bed, consider lifting the paver and drilling it on a stable work surface, where practical. Wear eye protection; masonry drilling throws grit and can chip the surface.
Mark the spot and begin with the bit perpendicular to the paver. Keep the hole away from edges and corners, where impact can break off a piece. There is no universal safe edge distance: it depends on paver thickness, material, hole diameter, and anchor design. When the location is flexible, leave more space rather than drilling close to an edge.
Drill in short bursts, withdrawing the bit occasionally to clear dust. If the bit gets hot, pauses between bursts help it cool; do not quench a hot bit in water. Stop if the paver vibrates, the hole starts to chip badly, or the bit suddenly breaks through into a void. Reduce force and check the support before continuing.
When to use rotation only
Hammer action is useful in concrete and many clay bricks, but it can chip brittle paving, porcelain, or thin stone. For those materials, use a bit intended for the specific surface and follow its instructions; a masonry hammer bit is not automatically the right choice. If you’re unsure, test on a spare paver or an inconspicuous spot. Start without hammer action, and switch only if the material is clearly resisting and the surface remains intact.
For dense pavers that defeat a standard cordless drill, a compatible cordless SDS-Plus rotary hammer can save time. If you only need one or two holes, borrowing or renting one may make more sense than buying a stronger tool.
Signs the bit is wrong or worn
A sharp masonry bit cuts with steady pressure and produces dust. If it spins without making progress, check that hammer mode is on for suitable masonry, clear packed dust from the hole, and inspect the carbide tip for wear or damage. A bit that wanders may be starting too fast, held at an angle, or used on a smooth glazed surface that needs a different bit.
Don’t force a blunt bit through the paver. It can overheat, enlarge the hole, and make an anchor fit poorly. Replace it when the tip is visibly rounded, cracked, or no longer cuts efficiently. For a small, occasional job, the cheapest suitable bit is often fine; spend more when you have many holes, hard material, or a need for consistent anchor fit.