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Choose the right bit for the pier
Brick piers can be harder to drill than a standard brick wall. They may be built from dense, hard-fired brick, and the mortar joints can be softer or crumbly. Start with a carbide-tipped masonry bit rated for hammer drilling, sized to the anchor you plan to install. A general-purpose masonry bit may work for a couple of small holes, but a worn or low-quality tip can skate across the surface, drill slowly, or overheat.
For a few holes up to about 3/8 inch wide, a quality standard-length carbide bit is usually enough. For repeated holes, larger diameters, or dense brick, a four-cutter SDS-Plus bit paired with an SDS-Plus rotary hammer is a worthwhile upgrade. A rotary hammer delivers a different, more efficient hammering action than a standard hammer drill, especially in masonry. Check the bit shank: SDS bits do not fit ordinary drill chucks unless you use an adapter, which can reduce performance and add wobble.
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Masonry bit types compared
| Bit type | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Carbide-tipped masonry bit, round shank | A few small holes with a corded or cordless hammer drill | Affordable and widely available, but slower in hard brick and more prone to wandering or wearing out |
| SDS-Plus carbide bit | Repeated holes or larger anchors with a rotary hammer | Faster and steadier in masonry; requires an SDS-Plus tool |
| Four-cutter SDS-Plus bit | Dense brick and holes where a clean, accurately sized hole matters | Costs more; excessive for occasional small holes |
| Long masonry bit | Deep holes or access through a thick pier | More flex and wander; use only when the required depth calls for it |
What to buy for brick piers
Match the bit diameter to the anchor manufacturer’s stated hole size, not just the anchor’s nominal width. For example, an anchor may require a hole slightly larger than its body. Too small and the anchor may not seat; too large and it may spin or pull out. Read the package before drilling, and use the same diameter bit throughout the installation.
Look for a clear carbide tip and a straight shank. For a hammer drill, buy a round-shank masonry bit; for a rotary hammer, choose the correct SDS shank. A four-cutter head can help keep a hole round and reduce the chance of the bit catching on aggregate, but a two-cutter bit is often fine for light household work. Shop carbide-tipped round-shank masonry bits for small jobs, or consider four-cutter SDS-Plus bits if you already own a compatible rotary hammer.
Bit length matters too. Choose a bit long enough to reach the required hole depth, but avoid an unnecessarily long one. Long bits can flex and drift, making it harder to keep the hole square to the pier face. Mark the depth on the bit with tape if your tool has no depth stop.
How to drill a straight, clean hole
First check that the pier is sound and that the hole location is clear of embedded metal, wiring, or plumbing. Avoid drilling close to an edge: a hole near the pier’s corner can split brick or break out the face. Follow the anchor maker’s edge-distance and spacing requirements. If the brick is cracked, loose, or badly weathered, choose another location or get advice before fastening a load to it.
Mark the center with a pencil. Start with the drill held perpendicular to the surface, using low speed and firm, controlled pressure. Once the bit has formed a shallow recess, increase speed while keeping it aligned. Let the hammer action do the work; leaning heavily on the tool can overheat the bit and damage the brick around the hole. If the bit skates, make a small starter dimple without hammer mode, then switch to hammer drilling.
Use hammer mode only with a bit designed for masonry. Stop periodically to clear dust, especially in deeper holes; packed dust slows cutting and can make the bit bind. A vacuum or bulb blower can clear the hole, but do not blow masonry dust toward your face. Wear safety glasses and a suitable dust mask. If the bit gets hot, let it cool rather than plunging it into water, which can damage the carbide tip or braze.
For a cordless hammer drill, a fully charged battery and a fresh bit make a noticeable difference. If a small drill struggles, stalls repeatedly, or takes several minutes for one modest hole, stop and reassess rather than forcing it. Dense brick may call for an SDS-Plus rotary hammer. Browse cordless SDS-Plus rotary hammers if you have several holes to make or need larger anchors. For two or three small holes, renting or borrowing one may be more sensible than buying.
Common mistakes and when to replace a bit
A hole that wanders or takes much longer than the previous one can indicate a worn tip. Replace the bit if the carbide is chipped, the cutting edge is rounded, or the shank is bent. A dull bit often produces fine dust without advancing; pressing harder usually increases heat and wear rather than restoring the cut.
Do not drill into a mortar joint simply because it is easier unless the anchor instructions allow it. Mortar can be weaker than brick and may crumble under load. Conversely, drilling too close to the edge or using hammer mode on fragile, spalled brick can break away the face. If the surface begins to crack, stop and move the hole only if the required spacing still permits it.
After drilling, remove dust from the hole as directed by the anchor manufacturer and insert the anchor fully. Masonry dust left inside can keep an anchor from seating and reduce its grip. The right bit is not necessarily the most expensive one: for occasional small holes, a sound carbide-tipped bit is usually adequate. For repeated work in hard piers, the better bit and a rotary hammer can save time and reduce frustration.