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Brick is easy to damage with the wrong bit or too much force. A blunt masonry bit can skate across the face, overheat, and leave a chipped crater around the hole. For most household work, the safest buy is a sharp carbide-tipped masonry bit sized for the anchor, used in a hammer drill with moderate pressure. The bit matters, but technique and the condition of the brick matter just as much.
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Choose the right bit for the brick
For a few holes in sound brick, a standard round-shank masonry bit with a carbide tip is usually sufficient. These are inexpensive and fit ordinary drill chucks. Choose one from a reputable bit set or buy the exact diameter you need; very cheap, dull bits can wander and take longer to cut.
If you have many holes to drill, or the brick is hard and dense, consider a higher-quality carbide masonry bit with a more robust tip. It costs more, but generally holds up better over repeated use. For an SDS-plus rotary hammer, buy an SDS-plus masonry bit—the shank is different and does not fit a standard three-jaw chuck. SDS bits are useful for frequent or larger holes, but are unnecessary for hanging a small picture or installing a handful of anchors.
Look for a bit diameter that matches the anchor manufacturer’s instructions. A common plastic wall plug may call for a 6 mm hole, while larger plugs may need 8 or 10 mm; don’t assume all anchors use the same clearance. A hole that is too wide gives the anchor little to grip, while one that is too small can make insertion difficult or split the surrounding brick.
Bit options at a glance
| Bit type | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Standard carbide masonry bit | A few small holes in ordinary brick | Affordable; can wear quickly in hard brick or with heavy use |
| Higher-quality carbide masonry bit | Repeated holes or dense brick | Costs more; still needs correct speed and pressure |
| SDS-plus masonry bit | Rotary hammers, larger holes, or regular masonry work | Requires an SDS-plus tool; excessive hammering can damage fragile brick |
| Multi-material bit | Occasional holes through mixed materials, when its maker rates it for masonry | May cut brick more slowly than a dedicated masonry bit |
How to reduce spalling
First, check whether the surface is brick, mortar, or a thin facing. Brick is generally the stronger choice for anchors, but drilling near an edge or into old, soft, cracked brick raises the chance of breaking out a chunk. Keep holes well away from edges and corners; when the anchor instructions do not specify a minimum, aim for at least 1 inch (25 mm) from an edge where the layout allows.
Mark the spot with a pencil, then make a small dimple with a nail set or awl if the bit tip keeps slipping. Start with the drill’s hammer action off and a small pilot bit—about 1/8 inch (3 mm)—to establish the hole. Keep the drill perpendicular to the wall and let the bit cut. Once the pilot is stable, switch to hammer mode and enlarge the hole to the required diameter. This staged approach is especially helpful on brittle or painted brick.
Use steady, moderate pressure rather than leaning hard on the drill. Excess force can overheat the tip and make the drill jump when it breaks through a hard spot. If the bit stops making progress, withdraw it to clear dust and let it cool. A masonry bit that is hot to the touch or has a rounded, damaged carbide tip should be rested or replaced; continuing to force a worn bit invites wandering and chipped edges.
Set up the drill correctly
Use a hammer drill or rotary hammer with a masonry bit. A regular drill can work in soft brick, but it is slower and may tempt you to push too hard. Start at a low-to-moderate speed. For a standard cordless drill, that generally means the lower gear while beginning the hole; once the bit is seated, use a controlled speed that keeps it cutting without excessive heat. The exact setting depends on the tool and bit, so follow their instructions.
Do not use an impact driver as a substitute for a hammer drill. Its rapid rotational impacts are designed for driving fasteners, not cleanly boring a masonry hole. If you have a rotary hammer, use hammer-drilling mode for brick and the matching SDS bit. For fragile brick, start without hammer action and add it only after the bit has a firm track.
For a small hole, a standard carbide-tipped masonry bit is the sensible low-cost choice. If you already own an SDS-plus rotary hammer or expect to drill many holes, look for SDS-plus masonry bits sized for your anchors. Buying a larger SDS system just to hang one light fixture is hard to justify.
Finish the hole and install the anchor
Set a depth stop or wrap tape around the bit at the intended depth. Drill only as deep as the anchor requires, plus a little clearance for dust—often around 1/4 inch (6 mm) extra. Stop when the mark reaches the wall; drilling too deep can leave the anchor unsupported or put the bit into wiring or plumbing behind the masonry.
Withdraw the bit while it is still turning slowly, then clear dust from the hole with a hand pump or vacuum. Dust left inside reduces an anchor’s grip and can stop a plug from seating fully. Avoid blowing dust toward your face; wear safety glasses and a suitable dust mask, especially when drilling several holes indoors.
Push or tap in the correct anchor without crushing it. If it spins freely, the hole may be oversized or the brick may be soft; move to a sound spot and use the anchor maker’s specified bit size rather than trying to rescue a loose hole with extra adhesive. For heavy loads, use a fastening system rated for the load and masonry type, and follow its installation instructions. Brick strength varies widely, so a light-duty plastic plug is not a safe stand-in for a rated masonry anchor.