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Choose the right drill for the fastener
Masonry screws, often sold as concrete screws, cut threads into a correctly sized pilot hole in concrete or solid masonry. For a few small screws in sound brick or concrete, a standard cordless hammer drill is usually enough. A rotary hammer is better for repeated drilling, larger holes, or hard concrete, but it is bulkier and can be excessive for ordinary wall fixings.
Before buying, check the screw maker’s instructions for the pilot-hole diameter, minimum embedment and permitted base materials. A common screw size may call for a 5/32-inch or 3/16-inch carbide masonry bit, but the required bit depends on the particular screw. The hole must match the specified diameter: too small and the screw can bind, overheat or snap; too large and its threads may not grip.
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Hammer drill or rotary hammer?
A hammer drill combines rotation with short, rapid impacts. That action helps a masonry bit advance, while the tool remains usable as a regular drill when hammer mode is off. A rotary hammer uses a more forceful piston mechanism and is designed to bore masonry efficiently. It is typically heavier, and many models accept SDS-plus bits rather than ordinary round-shank bits.
For occasional holes around 1/4 inch in diameter and a couple of inches deep, a decent cordless hammer drill and sharp carbide bit are generally the practical choice. If you need dozens of holes, are working in hard poured concrete, or routinely drill larger diameters, consider a cordless SDS-plus rotary hammer. The faster drilling can save time and reduce the strain of leaning on a hammer drill.
A corded hammer drill can be a lower-cost option if you work near an outlet and do not need cordless convenience. For a small home project, a basic cordless hammer drill kit may be enough; paying more for a heavy-duty model makes sense mainly when you drill masonry often or need its extra capacity.
Compare the main options
| Tool | Best fit | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Cordless hammer drill | Occasional small masonry-screw pilot holes | Slower in hard concrete; needs a sharp masonry bit |
| Corded hammer drill | Budget projects near an outlet | Cord limits reach; performance varies widely by tool |
| Cordless rotary hammer | Frequent holes or harder concrete | Higher cost, more weight, and often needs SDS-plus bits |
What to look for when buying
For a hammer drill, compare battery platform, chuck capacity, weight and low-speed control, not just the advertised voltage or maximum torque. A 1/2-inch chuck accepts a broad range of common drill bits, but it does not mean the tool is equally suited to every 1/2-inch masonry hole. Check the manufacturer’s stated masonry drilling capacity. A smaller 3/8-inch model can be sufficient for light work, but a 1/2-inch drill offers more flexibility if you also use larger bits or drill wood and metal.
Two batteries are useful when drilling many holes, but a single battery is fine for a short installation. A side handle improves control and is worth using when the drill is powerful or the bit is large. Clutch settings help drive screws in other materials; they are not a substitute for careful control when installing masonry screws. Set the drill to the screw maker’s recommended driving method, and stop if the screw becomes unusually difficult to turn rather than forcing it until it breaks.
Use the right bit and install carefully
Use a carbide-tipped bit intended for masonry, in the exact diameter specified for the screw. A general-purpose twist bit or a worn masonry bit can wander, cut slowly or leave an irregular hole. For hammer-drill work, use a round-shank bit rated for hammer drilling. For an SDS-plus rotary hammer, use an SDS-plus bit; chuck adapters can add runout and are a poor choice for accurate masonry holes.
Mark the hole location and drill perpendicular to the surface. If the tool has a depth stop, set it to the required hole depth; otherwise, mark the bit with tape. Drill slightly deeper than the screw’s required embedment so dust has room to collect below the fastener. Do not drill too close to the edge of a brick or concrete section: a hole near an edge can split the material, especially in brittle or damaged masonry. Follow the screw manufacturer’s minimum edge and spacing distances.
Withdraw the bit occasionally to clear dust, and clear the finished hole before installing the screw. Dust left in the bottom can stop the screw short or interfere with its grip. Wear eye protection; drilling overhead calls for suitable respiratory protection and extra attention to falling dust. Check for wiring, pipes and other hidden services before drilling.
Common problems and when to change approach
If drilling stalls, first check that hammer mode is engaged, the bit is sharp and the material is actually masonry rather than a hard inclusion such as aggregate. Keep the drill steady and let the bit cut; pushing hard can overheat the bit and reduce control. If several pilot holes take too long in concrete, a rotary hammer is likely a better purchase than simply applying more pressure.
If a screw spins without tightening, the hole may be oversized, damaged or drilled into material that cannot hold the threads. Do not assume a longer screw will fix a poor hole. Use a new location where possible, check that the screw is approved for the substrate, and follow its installation instructions. In hollow block, crumbly mortar or weak masonry, the right solution may be a suitable masonry anchor rather than a concrete screw. A carbide masonry bit set is useful if you need several pilot-hole sizes, but for one job, buying the specified bit individually avoids paying for sizes you will not use.