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Why drill the mortar joint?
For many light-duty masonry jobs, a mortar joint is a better target than the brick itself. Mortar is usually easier to drill, and a small hole is less likely to leave a visible scar in a brick face. It also gives you a repairable spot: if an anchor comes out, you can patch the joint. But mortar strength and condition vary, so don’t assume every joint can hold the same load.
A cordless hammer drill is useful when you need to make a few holes for a small wall anchor, clip, or bracket. The hammer action helps the bit cut masonry, while the clutch and variable speed give you more control than an impact driver. For a heavy fixture, a large hole, or repeated drilling, a corded rotary hammer is usually faster and less tiring.
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What to buy for joint drilling
Look for a 18V or 20V-class cordless hammer drill with a two-speed gearbox, a side handle, and a hammer setting you can switch off. The voltage labels are marketing conventions; compare the tool’s size, battery capacity, and handling rather than treating 20V as automatically stronger than 18V.
A compact drill is easier to hold square against a wall and is generally plenty for holes around 1/4 inch (6 mm) in sound mortar. A full-size model is a better choice if you’ll drill larger holes or mix masonry drilling with demanding wood and metal work. For typical homeowner use, a 2.0Ah battery can handle a handful of small holes; a 4.0Ah pack gives more runtime, but adds weight.
Compare options in the cordless 18V hammer drill category. If you already own batteries in a tool brand’s system, a bare tool may cost less than buying another charger and battery. Check the exact kit contents before ordering.
Choosing between drill types
| Tool | Best fit | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Compact cordless hammer drill | A few small holes in mortar | Slower on larger holes; battery runtime is limited |
| Full-size cordless hammer drill | Mixed jobs and occasional larger masonry holes | Heavier and often more tool than a small repair needs |
| Corded rotary hammer | Many holes, larger diameters, or harder masonry | Bulkier, louder, and tied to an outlet or extension cord |
| Regular drill or impact driver | Wood, metal, and fasteners | Not the right choice for efficient masonry drilling |
Don’t buy a hammer drill just because the job involves a wall. If you need one or two small holes in soft, sound mortar, a regular drill with a sharp masonry bit may work, though it will be slower. For recurring masonry work, the hammer setting is worth having. An impact driver is for driving fasteners, not drilling masonry holes.
Bits and anchors matter as much as the drill
Use a carbide-tipped masonry bit in the diameter specified by the anchor maker. A general-purpose twist bit can overheat, wander, or lose its edge quickly. Match the bit shank to the drill’s chuck, and check that the bit is not bent or badly worn. For masonry bits and wall plugs, browse the carbide masonry bits and wall-anchor options.
Small plastic plugs are commonly used with screws for light loads, but their holding power depends on the anchor, the mortar, installation depth, and the force direction. Follow the anchor’s stated hole size and depth rather than guessing. For a rail, heavy shelf, or anything overhead, use a fastening system rated for the load and substrate; if the mortar is soft or crumbling, move to sound brick or choose another mounting method.
How to drill without damaging the joint
1. Check for wiring, pipes, and other hidden services before drilling. Choose sound mortar, not a cracked or hollow-looking section, and keep the hole away from the edge of a brick. If the anchor instructions allow it, aim for the middle of the joint.
2. Mark the bit depth with tape or use a depth stop. Start at low speed with the drill held square to the wall. Let the bit establish its position before applying steady pressure; pushing hard can make it skate or bind.
3. Engage hammer mode for masonry. Use a controlled, moderate pace rather than forcing the drill. Pull the bit out now and then to clear dust, especially in deeper holes. Excessive heat, a stalled bit, or rapidly crumbling mortar are signs to stop and reassess.
4. Vacuum or brush dust from the hole as directed by the anchor maker. A dusty hole can prevent an anchor from seating properly. Insert the anchor to the specified depth, then tighten the screw without overtightening it and crushing weak mortar.
Wear eye protection. Masonry dust is not something to breathe, so avoid blowing it out with your mouth; use a vacuum or another suitable dust-control method. If the joint begins breaking away around the hole, stop. A larger anchor will not fix a weak substrate.
When a hammer drill is not enough
A cordless hammer drill is a sensible buy for occasional small holes, but it is not a substitute for a rotary hammer when the work becomes repetitive. If you are drilling a row of holes, going much beyond roughly 3/8 inch (10 mm), or working in hard, dense masonry, a rotary hammer with the right bit can save time and reduce strain. For one small repair, renting or borrowing one may be more practical than buying a larger tool.
For light mounting in good mortar, choose a compact hammer drill and a correctly sized bit. For uncertain or heavy loads, prioritize the anchor’s rating and the condition of the masonry over extra drill power.