What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
What we cover
Match the drill to the job
Tile backer board and masonry call for different drilling methods. Cement board is abrasive but relatively soft; a sharp carbide-tipped masonry bit, steady pressure, and a standard drill mode will usually make clean holes. Hammer mode can chip the board, enlarge the hole, or make a brittle edge crumble. For brick, block, or concrete, hammer action helps a masonry bit cut faster—but a compact drill may struggle in hard concrete or with large holes.
If your work is mostly backer board, cabinet installation, and occasional small holes in brick, a good 18V or 20V cordless hammer drill is a versatile choice. If you regularly drill larger holes in concrete, look at a rotary hammer instead. Its percussion mechanism is designed for masonry and is less punishing to the user during sustained drilling.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
What to look for
Choose a drill with a two-speed gearbox, a clutch for ordinary fastening, and a hammer setting that can be switched off. A side handle matters: it gives you control if a bit binds. A 1/2-inch chuck accepts common larger bits, but chuck size alone does not tell you how well a drill handles masonry. Battery capacity and tool weight also matter. A 2.0Ah battery keeps the tool lighter; a 4.0Ah or larger pack is more useful for repeated masonry holes, though it adds weight.
For backer board, use a carbide masonry bit sized to the screw or anchor pilot hole specified by its manufacturer. Run the drill without hammer action, and support the board close to the hole. For masonry, start at low speed to keep the bit from wandering, then use hammer mode and moderate pressure. Let the bit clear dust periodically; packed dust slows drilling and overheats the tip. Avoid leaning hard on the drill, which can stall it or cause the bit to bind.
Cordless hammer drill comparison
| Type | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Compact 18V/20V hammer drill | Backer board, wood, fastening, occasional small masonry holes | Lighter and easier to handle, but slower in hard concrete |
| Full-size 18V/20V hammer drill | Frequent holes in brick or block; larger bits within the tool’s limits | More capable, but heavier and tiring overhead |
| Cordless rotary hammer | Repeated or larger holes in concrete and hard masonry | Faster in demanding masonry, but less suitable for routine screwdriving and usually bulkier |
For a first cordless setup, compare 18V cordless hammer drill kits within the battery platform you already own. A kit with two batteries is useful if you are drilling for hours; for a handful of holes, one battery is often enough.
Buying for backer board
Backer board does not justify buying the most powerful hammer drill. A standard cordless drill can work if it has enough chuck capacity and you use suitable bits. The bigger risk is damaging the board or driving a screw incorrectly, not a lack of hammer force. Switch hammer mode off for pilot holes, keep the bit perpendicular, and use the board maker’s recommended fasteners and spacing. Many installations call for screws roughly every 8 inches along supports, but follow the specific board and project instructions rather than treating that as universal.
Where the same drill must also tackle occasional masonry, a mid-size hammer drill is a sensible compromise. A compact cordless hammer drill is easier to use in tight spaces, but expect slower progress in dense concrete. For a few small holes in brick, that is usually an acceptable trade. For dozens of holes, or holes around 1/2 inch and larger in concrete, a rotary hammer is generally the better tool.
Bits, anchors, and common failures
Use a masonry bit for brick, block, and concrete, and replace it when the carbide tip is worn or the bit repeatedly wanders. A dull bit creates heat, takes longer, and encourages excessive pressure. In tile, do not use hammer mode: use a tile-rated bit and low speed until through the tile, then change to a masonry bit and hammer mode only if the material behind it requires it. This reduces the chance of cracking the tile.
Match the hole diameter and depth to the anchor. Drilling a hole too wide can leave a plastic anchor spinning; drilling too shallow prevents it from seating fully. Clear dust from the hole before installing an anchor, especially in masonry, because dust can interfere with grip. If the drill stalls, stop and back the bit out rather than twisting harder. A side handle and a firm stance reduce the risk of wrist injury when a bit catches.
When to rent or buy up
Choose a full-size hammer drill if masonry is a regular part of your work and you want one battery tool for drilling and driving. Consider a rotary hammer if the job involves many concrete holes, dense aggregate, or larger diameters. Renting one for a short project can cost less than buying a heavier tool that will sit unused. For occasional backer-board work and a few anchor holes, a standard drill plus the right bits may be the cheaper, perfectly adequate option. Buy more capacity only when the material, hole size, or number of holes makes the smaller tool slow or unreliable.