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Old brick is less predictable than new masonry. It may be soft and crumbly, or hard enough to wear down a bit quickly; mortar joints can be weaker than the brick, and hidden cracks may spread when drilling. A cordless hammer drill can handle many small holes for screws, clips, and light fixtures, provided you choose the right spot, bit, and anchor. For large or deep holes, a rotary hammer is usually the better tool.
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Check the wall before drilling
Look for loose bricks, open mortar joints, flaking faces, and existing cracks. Don’t drill into a brick that moves when pressed, or close to a damaged edge. If the hole is for a heavy load, first confirm that the wall and fixing are suitable; an anchor cannot make crumbling masonry sound.
Decide whether the fixing should go into brick or mortar. For most masonry anchors, brick is the stronger choice, but old brick can split or spall, particularly near an edge. Mortar is easier to drill and may be the safer option in fragile brick, but it is often weaker and can crumble. Follow the anchor maker’s instructions, and avoid placing a hole close to a brick’s edge or corner. If the brick is visibly fragile, test an inconspicuous location or get advice before committing.
Choose a tool and bit for the hole
A hammer drill combines rotation with a rapid tapping action. It’s a practical choice for small holes, commonly around 1/4 inch (6 mm) and sometimes up to 3/8 inch (10 mm), depending on the drill, bit, and masonry. A cordless hammer drill is more versatile than a basic drill when you also need to drill into masonry regularly.
A rotary hammer uses a different impact mechanism and generally makes holes faster with less pressure, especially in hard brick or for larger diameters. For a single small hole in soft brick, buying one is hard to justify; for repeated holes or holes around 1/2 inch (13 mm) and larger, it can save time and strain. A basic drill without hammer action can work in soft brick with a sharp masonry bit, but expect slower progress.
| Tool | Best fit | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Basic drill | Occasional small hole in soft brick | Slow in hard masonry; pushing harder can overheat the bit. |
| Hammer drill | Small and medium holes for common anchors | More vibration than a basic drill; can damage fragile brick if used aggressively. |
| Rotary hammer | Repeated, deep, or larger-diameter holes | More tool than most small household jobs require. |
Use a sharp carbide-tipped masonry bit in the diameter specified for the anchor. A blunt or undersized bit can wander, overheat, or leave a hole that won’t hold. Check the drill chuck size before buying: many hammer drills accept bits with a round shank, while rotary hammers commonly use SDS bits and need a matching chuck. If you only need one or two holes, a carbide-tipped masonry bit is a sensible purchase; a premium set is unnecessary unless you drill masonry often.
Mark the hole and set up safely
Choose a point well inside the brick rather than directly on a corner or edge. If drilling into mortar instead, make sure the anchor is designed for that material. Check for electrical wires and plumbing before drilling, especially near outlets, switches, taps, or pipes. Wear eye protection; masonry dust and chips can fly even at low speed. A suitable dust mask is sensible when making more than a little dust.
Mark the hole with a pencil, then make a small dimple in the brick with a nail or a slow, light touch from the bit. Set a depth stop if the drill has one, or wrap tape around the bit at the required depth. Drill only as deep as the anchor maker specifies, usually a little deeper than the anchor itself so dust has room to collect. Keep the drill straight and use a side handle if provided.
Drill without damaging old brick
Start with the drill in rotation-only mode, if available, at low speed. Apply light, steady pressure until the bit has made a shallow guide. This helps stop it skittering across the brick face. Then engage hammer mode and continue at a moderate speed. Let the hammer action do the work; forcing the drill can make the bit overheat or cause the brick face to chip.
Pull the bit out every few seconds to clear dust, especially in a deep hole. If the drill slows sharply, the bit gets hot, or progress stops, pause. Let the bit cool and check that it isn’t clogged or worn. Don’t keep leaning on a stalled drill. If the bit repeatedly fails to advance through hard brick, a rotary hammer is the more effective next step.
Old brick can split or shed its face without much warning. Stop if you hear a sudden change in sound, see a crack forming, or notice the hole widening. Try a different position only if the new spot is sound and gives the anchor proper edge clearance. Don’t try to rescue an oversized hole by forcing in a larger anchor unless the fixing instructions allow it.
Clean the hole and fit the fixing
When drilling is done, remove loose dust with a hand pump, vacuum, or the cleaning method specified by the anchor maker. Dust left in the hole can prevent an expansion anchor from seating properly or weaken the grip of other fixings. Insert the correct masonry wall anchor and install the screw or fastener to its instructions. Don’t overtighten: an expanding plug can split old brick, and a screw that spins without tightening may indicate a damaged or oversized hole.
If the fixing feels loose, carries a heavy load, or the brick starts to crack, stop and reassess rather than relying on a failed hole. A different sound part of the wall, a suitable mortar-joint fixing, or a fastening system designed for the load may be safer than drilling again beside the same damaged spot.