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A cinder block garage wall is not especially hard to drill, but it punishes the wrong setup. A regular drill can spin a masonry bit without making much progress; a heavy rotary hammer can be awkward and unnecessary for a few small anchor holes. For most garage shelves, brackets and tool racks, a cordless hammer drill with a sharp carbide-tipped masonry bit is the practical middle ground.
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Choose by hole size and quantity
For occasional holes up to about 1/2 inch in diameter, a 18V or 20V cordless hammer drill is usually enough. Look for a hammer mode, a side handle, a variable-speed trigger and a clutch you can use in standard drill mode. A brushless motor can extend runtime and often improves power, but it is not essential for drilling a few holes in block.
If you need many holes, larger holes, or repeated drilling into dense concrete, consider a cordless rotary hammer with an SDS-Plus bit system. Its hammering action is more efficient than the rapid, short impacts of a hammer drill. The trade-off is a larger tool, a different bit shank, and less convenience for ordinary screwdriving.
A standard drill is the budget choice only when you are drilling very soft block, using a small bit, or making one or two holes and can tolerate slow progress. If it stalls or barely advances after several seconds of firm, steady pressure, switch to a hammer drill rather than leaning harder on it.
Quick comparison
| Tool | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Standard cordless drill | One or two small holes in soft block | Slow in dense block; can overheat or polish the hole |
| Cordless hammer drill | Typical garage anchors and brackets, roughly 1/4–1/2 inch holes | Slower than a rotary hammer on larger or numerous holes |
| Cordless SDS-Plus rotary hammer | Repeated holes, larger diameters, hard block or concrete | Bulkier and usually not the best all-purpose screwdriving tool |
For a general-purpose purchase, compare 18V or 20V cordless hammer drills with a side handle and a battery size you can comfortably manage. If the job is a full row of anchors or involves holes over 1/2 inch, price cordless SDS-Plus rotary hammers too.
Bits and anchors matter
Use a masonry bit with a carbide tip, sized to the anchor manufacturer’s instructions. A worn or cheap bit is a common reason a powerful drill seems ineffective. For a typical plastic masonry plug, the required hole may be 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch, but do not guess: match the bit diameter and drilling depth to the specific anchor. For heavier shelves or equipment, choose a rated masonry screw or suitable expansion anchor rather than relying on a small plastic plug.
Block walls vary. The face shell is often easier to drill than the solid web, while an internal void can make the bit break through suddenly. If the load is heavy, avoid placing an anchor close to a block edge or mortar joint unless the anchor instructions allow it. When the attachment location gives you a choice, drilling into the block face is generally more predictable than drilling into a mortar joint.
Drill the hole cleanly
Mark the hole and check for pipes, wiring and other services before drilling. Put on eye protection; masonry dust and chips are not harmless. Set the drill to hammer mode, fit the side handle, and start at low speed to keep the bit from skating. Once the tip is established, increase speed and use firm, straight pressure. Let the hammer action do the work—forcing the drill can overheat it, bend the bit or make the hole wander.
Clear dust from the hole as you go, especially in deeper holes. Stop occasionally to withdraw the bit while it is still turning slowly; this helps remove debris and reduces binding. Drill slightly deeper than the anchor’s required embedment only if the instructions call for it, and avoid pushing so far that the anchor bottoms out on dust. Vacuum or blow out the hole before fitting the anchor, following the anchor maker’s cleaning guidance.
Avoid common failures
If the drill makes heat but little progress, check that hammer mode is selected, the bit is sharp and the tool is not set to a low-speed screwdriving range. If the bit suddenly drops into a void, withdraw it and confirm the anchor can still achieve the required engagement; a plug suspended in an empty cavity may not hold. If the bit binds, release the trigger and reverse carefully rather than twisting the drill with your wrist. A side handle helps control reaction torque.
For several small holes, a single battery may be enough, but cold batteries and old packs reduce runtime. A second battery is convenient, not mandatory. If you only have two or three holes to make in ordinary hollow block, borrowing a hammer drill or buying a decent masonry bit may be more sensible than purchasing a larger tool. If the job will recur, the hammer drill earns its space; if you are drilling dozens of large holes, step up to a rotary hammer rather than asking a compact drill to do the heavier tool’s job.