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What you need for cinder block
Cinder block is relatively soft compared with poured concrete, but its hollow cells, hard face shells, and occasional aggregate make drilling less predictable than drilling wood. For small holes for plastic anchors, a compact 18V cordless hammer drill is usually enough. For repeated holes, larger diameters, or masonry work beyond occasional home repairs, a rotary hammer is often the better tool.
A hammer drill spins the bit while delivering a rapid, short hammering action. That helps a carbide masonry bit cut into block faster than rotation alone. A rotary hammer uses a different impact mechanism and hits harder; it is faster in tougher masonry and less tiring for repeated drilling, but costs more and can be excessive for a few small anchor holes.
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Compare the main options
| Tool | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 12V hammer drill | Occasional small holes in block | Light and easy to handle, but slower and less suited to larger holes |
| 18V hammer drill | General DIY anchor holes and regular home use | More capable, though bulkier than a compact drill |
| Corded or cordless rotary hammer | Many holes, larger diameters, or hard masonry | Higher cost and weight; can be more tool than the job requires |
| Regular drill, no hammer mode | Very small holes in soft block, if the bit is sharp | Slow and more likely to stall or overheat the bit |
Choosing a cordless hammer drill
For a first tool, look for an 18V hammer drill with a three-jaw chuck, a working hammer mode, and a side handle. The side handle is useful when the bit catches or breaks through a hollow section. A clutch helps control screw driving, but it does not replace a firm grip while drilling. A second battery is helpful if you have many holes to make; for a short installation, one charged battery may be sufficient.
Compact 12V tools can handle small anchor holes in ordinary block, particularly with a sharp bit and steady pressure. They are easier to control overhead and may be the sensible cheaper choice for occasional use. Move up to 18V if you expect repeated drilling, holes around 3/8 inch or larger, or block that is unusually dense. Battery voltage alone does not guarantee speed: bit quality, tool condition, and technique matter too.
For a capable general-purpose option, compare 18V cordless hammer drills. If the job is a few small holes a year, a 12V hammer drill may be adequate and easier to store. Check that the drill has a hammer setting; a standard drill with a similar-looking chuck will not provide the same action.
Bits and anchors matter
Use a masonry bit with a carbide tip, sized to the anchor manufacturer’s instructions. A dull or cheap bit can wander, polish the hole instead of cutting it, or heat up without making progress. For several holes, buy a decent masonry bit set or replace an individual bit that has become blunt. A carbide-tipped masonry bit is the basic accessory; the correct diameter is more important than buying an oversized set.
Choose the anchor for the block and the load, not just the drill. Plastic expansion plugs work for light-duty fixings when installed in sound material and matched to the screw. Hollow block may need an anchor designed to grip in a void, while heavier loads may call for a suitable sleeve, toggle, or masonry anchoring system. Avoid placing a heavy load in a thin face shell without checking the anchor’s rating and installation requirements.
How to drill cleanly
Mark the hole and check for pipes or wiring before drilling. If practical, avoid the mortar joint: its strength and condition can vary, and the joint may crumble under an anchor. Put the drill in hammer mode, hold it square to the wall, and start slowly to keep the bit from skating. Once the tip has formed a shallow seat, increase speed and apply steady pressure rather than leaning your full weight on the tool.
Drill only as deep as the anchor requires, allowing a little extra room for dust. Pull the bit out occasionally to clear debris, especially in deeper holes. Vacuum or blow out the hole using a safe method before fitting the anchor; dust left inside can stop it seating fully. Wear eye protection, and use a dust mask when drilling indoors. Masonry dust is not something to breathe casually.
Common problems and fixes
If the bit spins without advancing, stop and inspect the tip. It may be blunt, or you may have hit unusually hard aggregate. Replace the bit or use a rotary hammer for sustained work rather than forcing a small drill until it overheats. If the drill bucks, use the side handle and reduce pressure. A jammed bit can twist your wrist, particularly in a larger hole.
If the hole becomes oversized, the anchor may spin instead of gripping. Don’t try to fix a poor hole by driving in a larger screw; use an anchor suited to the actual hole and substrate, or move to a sound location. If the drill breaks through into a hollow cell, the anchor type becomes especially important: a basic plug may have nothing solid behind it to expand against.
Make the choice by workload
For a shelf, hose reel, or occasional light-duty fixing, a modest cordless hammer drill and a sharp carbide bit are usually enough. Buy the cheaper compact tool if your holes are small and infrequent. Choose an 18V model if you want one drill for regular DIY and masonry jobs. If you are drilling dozens of holes, working with larger bits, or repeatedly fighting dense block, rent or buy a rotary hammer instead. The right anchor and a clean, correctly sized hole will matter as much as extra battery power.