What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
What we cover
Choose the right bit for the hole
For ordinary concrete anchor holes, a carbide-tipped masonry bit is the sensible starting point. It is made for hammer drilling in brick, block and concrete, and costs far less than a diamond core bit. The important choice is not just the bit: match its diameter to the anchor maker’s instructions, its shank to your drill, and its length to the hole depth.
Most plastic plugs and many concrete screws call for a specific hole diameter, commonly in the 3/16- to 1/2-inch range. Do not guess based on the screw’s diameter. A hole that is too large can leave an anchor spinning or pulling out; one that is too small can make installation difficult or damage the fastener. Check the anchor packaging, and follow its stated drilling mode and depth.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
Bit types and their trade-offs
| Bit type | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Standard carbide-tipped, round shank | Occasional holes with a regular drill or hammer drill that accepts round-shank bits | Usually inexpensive, but may slip in a chuck and drill more slowly than an SDS bit in hard concrete |
| SDS-Plus carbide-tipped | Repeated anchor holes with an SDS-Plus rotary hammer | Fast and secure in the tool, but requires an SDS-Plus-compatible machine |
| Multi-material carbide bit | Jobs that include masonry plus tile, wood or metal, depending on the bit’s rating | Convenient, but a dedicated masonry bit is often a better-value choice for concrete-only work |
For a cordless hammer drill, look for a round-shank bit rated for hammer drilling and sized for the chuck. For an SDS-Plus rotary hammer, choose an SDS-Plus bit. SDS shanks transfer impact efficiently and reduce the chance of the bit slipping in the chuck. Do not try to use an SDS bit in a standard chuck unless the tool has the correct adapter; adapters can add wobble and are a poor choice for accurate anchor holes.
If you are buying bits for a standard drill, compare round-shank carbide masonry bit sets. For regular concrete drilling with a rotary hammer, an SDS-Plus masonry bit set is the more suitable category. A set saves time when an installation uses several anchor sizes, but a single quality bit is enough if you know the required diameter.
Check the drill and the material
A drill’s hammer mode helps the carbide tip chip concrete as it rotates. A plain drill can work in soft brick or lightweight block, but it is slow in dense concrete and can overheat the bit. An impact driver is not a substitute for a hammer drill: its rotational impacts are designed for driving fasteners, not for drilling masonry holes. Use an impact-rated masonry bit only where the bit maker permits it, and do not assume that makes the driver a proper concrete-drilling tool.
For a handful of small holes, a cordless hammer drill may be adequate. For many holes, larger diameters or hard concrete, an SDS-Plus rotary hammer typically drills faster and with less pressure from the operator. The cheaper bit is fine for occasional work in brick or block, provided it fits the tool and remains sharp. If you are drilling repeated holes in hard concrete, a better bit and rotary hammer can save time and reduce wear on a small cordless drill.
Before drilling, check for pipes and wiring, and avoid drilling into a structural member or near an edge without confirming the anchor requirements. Mark the target depth on the bit with tape or use a depth stop. Drill perpendicular to the surface: an angled hole can prevent an anchor from seating properly.
Drill the hole cleanly
Start at a steady speed with the bit held square. Use hammer mode for concrete and most masonry when the bit and drill allow it. Let the tool do the work; excessive downward force can stall a cordless drill, overheat the tip or enlarge the hole. Withdraw the bit every few seconds on deeper holes to clear dust and help the bit cool. Wear safety glasses and suitable respiratory protection, and use dust extraction where practical. Concrete dust is hazardous to breathe.
Drill to the specified depth, not merely the length of the anchor. Many anchors need extra space for dust and for the fastener to seat, but the required allowance varies by anchor design. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions rather than adding an arbitrary depth. Clear dust from the hole with a vacuum or the cleaning method specified for the anchor. Dust left in the bottom can stop an anchor from reaching full depth and weaken its hold.
Spot wear and avoid common failures
A carbide bit is not finished just because it has drilled one hole, but it does wear. Signs include slower drilling, a polished or rounded cutting edge, more heat, and the need to push harder. Continuing with a dull bit can make a hole oversize, especially if the bit wobbles. Replace it when it no longer cuts cleanly; for critical or overhead anchor work, do not rely on a visibly damaged tip.
If the bit stops making progress, first check that hammer mode is on and that the bit is intended for the material. A hard aggregate, embedded stone or reinforcing steel can also stop a masonry bit. Do not force the bit or use a masonry bit to drill through rebar. Stop and reassess the hole location and the tool. If the hole is too large, do not compensate by forcing in the same anchor; choose a repair or fastening method approved for the load and substrate.
For a small household job, a correctly sized round-shank carbide bit is often all you need. For frequent anchor installation in concrete, choose SDS-Plus bits matched to an SDS-Plus rotary hammer, and keep the common anchor diameters on hand. In either case, the right hole size, a sharp tip and careful dust removal matter more to anchor performance than buying the largest bit set on the shelf.