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What to buy for a furring strip
For most furring strips fastened to concrete or solid masonry, use a corrosion-resistant concrete screw about 3/16 inch in diameter and long enough to penetrate the wall by at least 1 inch. A 1/4-inch screw is a reasonable choice for thicker strips, heavier loads, or a less-than-perfect wall, but it needs a larger pilot hole and more driving force. Match the screw’s required bit size to the bit supplied or specified on its package; concrete screws are sensitive to hole diameter.
Concrete screws cut threads into a drilled pilot hole. They are removable and usually simpler than installing a separate plastic anchor. They are not the right fastener for every wall: hollow block, crumbling masonry, and drywall-covered walls require different checks and often a different fastening method.
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Concrete screw options compared
| Option | Best fit | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 3/16-inch concrete screw | Typical wood furring strip on sound concrete or solid brick | Smaller pilot hole and easier driving; less capacity and tolerance for poor masonry than a larger screw |
| 1/4-inch concrete screw | Thicker strips or applications needing a stronger fastening point | Requires a larger hole and more effort; can split a narrow strip if placed too close to an edge |
| Concrete screw with washer-style head | Holding a strip without a separate washer | Head may sit proud; check that it will not interfere with the finish |
| Screw plus plastic masonry plug | Light-duty work in some masonry when a suitable plug is specified | Not interchangeable with a concrete screw system; performance depends on plug, hole, and wall condition |
For a straightforward purchase, look for 3/16-inch concrete screws with a washer-style head. Choose a length based on the strip thickness, any gap behind it, and the required embedment—not just the overall thickness of the assembly.
Choose length and layout
A useful sizing rule is: screw length = furring-strip thickness + any gap + at least 1 inch of penetration into sound masonry. For example, a 3/4-inch strip against a flat wall commonly calls for a screw around 1-3/4 inches long. If the wall has a 1/4-inch gap behind the strip, add that gap to the calculation. Follow the screw maker’s stated embedment and minimum length; do not count the strip as embedment.
For a light interior finish, fasteners about 16 to 24 inches apart along a strip are a practical starting point, with one near each end. Use closer spacing if the strip is bowed, the wall is uneven, or the assembly will carry more than lightweight finish material. Keep screws near the center of a narrow strip and generally at least 1 inch from its end to reduce splitting. These are layout guidelines, not a substitute for a load rating when the wall will support cabinets, handrails, or other heavy items.
Tools and pilot holes
Use a hammer drill and a masonry bit of the exact diameter specified for the screw. A regular drill can sometimes make holes in soft brick or mortar, but it is slower and more likely to overheat or wander in hard concrete. A cordless hammer drill is the practical choice for several holes; a rotary hammer is usually unnecessary for a small furring-strip job. If buying bits, check the required diameter and choose a carbide-tipped masonry bit such as carbide masonry bits for a hammer drill.
Mark the holes through the strip, then move the strip aside and drill into the masonry. Drill slightly deeper than the screw’s required embedment—often about 1/4 inch extra—to leave room for dust. Keep the drill straight, clear dust from the hole with a vacuum or suitable cleaning method, and avoid drilling into hidden wiring or plumbing. Wear eye protection; masonry dust is harmful to breathe, so use effective dust control and respiratory protection appropriate to the conditions.
Drive without stripping the hole
Concrete screws need a correctly sized, clean pilot hole. A hole that is too small can make the screw bind, overheat, or snap; one that is too large may let the threads spin without gripping. Start the screw by hand and drive it with a compatible driver or drill at controlled speed. A clutch helps, but do not rely on it to prevent damage. Stop when the head seats firmly against the strip. Overdriving can strip the masonry threads or crush the wood.
If the screw becomes hard to turn before the head seats, back it out and check for dust, a crooked hole, or insufficient depth. Do not keep forcing it. If it spins freely, the hole may be oversized or the masonry may be weak; move to fresh sound material rather than putting a larger screw into the same damaged hole. Avoid placing a screw close to a masonry edge, where expansion and drilling can cause cracking. Minimum edge distances vary, so check the fastener instructions, especially on brick or block.
Check the wall before committing
Solid concrete and sound solid brick are the most predictable substrates. Brick can split, particularly near an edge; where practical, drilling into the center of a sound brick is often safer than drilling into a mortar joint, but the right location depends on the wall and the screw manufacturer’s guidance. Mortar can be softer and less consistent than brick. Test a discreet location and inspect the hole before installing the full run.
Hollow concrete block is different: a screw may land in a hollow cell rather than solid material. Use a fastening system rated for the block and the expected load, or locate a solid section. In crumbling, cracked, or very soft masonry, ordinary concrete screws may not hold reliably. A longer screw does not fix weak material. If a strip must carry significant weight or failure would be hazardous, use a fastening method designed for that substrate and verify its published load limits.
When a cheaper option is fine
For a light-duty strip on sound masonry, a basic, correctly sized concrete screw is usually enough; premium coatings or oversized fasteners do not compensate for a bad hole. Use stainless or an appropriate corrosion-resistant finish in damp locations, and confirm it is suitable for the wall and exposure. Indoors in a dry room, a standard coated screw can be the sensible lower-cost choice.
Plastic plugs can be economical for light loads when used with the screw size and hole dimensions specified for that plug. But do not substitute a generic plug into a hole drilled for a concrete screw, or vice versa. The dependable choice is the system designed for the wall material, installed to its stated hole size and embedment.