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Match the bit to the job
For concrete, brick, and mortar, the usual choice is a carbide-tipped masonry bit. The carbide tip cuts brittle mineral material, while the fluted steel body carries dust out of the hole. A standard twist bit is for metal or wood, not masonry: it can overheat, dull quickly, and skate across a hard surface.
Before buying, check the drill and the anchor. A regular cordless drill can turn a masonry bit, but a hammer drill adds short forward blows that speed work in concrete and hard brick. The bit’s diameter should match the anchor maker’s specified hole size; the shank must fit your drill’s chuck. Most ordinary hammer-drill bits have round shanks. SDS bits need an SDS chuck and will not fit a standard three-jaw chuck.
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Which bit type works best?
| Bit type | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Basic carbide-tipped masonry bit | A few small holes in brick, block, or softer concrete | Low cost; slower in hard concrete and may wear faster |
| Multi-material carbide bit | Occasional holes in masonry, tile, or other materials, usually with hammer mode off | Versatile, but not the fastest choice for repeated concrete drilling |
| SDS-Plus hammer bit | Frequent or deeper holes in concrete with an SDS rotary hammer | Efficient and durable for the right tool, but incompatible with standard chucks |
| Long-reach masonry bit | Deep holes or access through thick material | More prone to wandering; needs careful alignment and dust clearing |
For a couple of holes to hang a light shelf, a basic bit is often enough. If you are drilling many holes, working in dense concrete, or routinely fitting larger anchors, consider an SDS-Plus bit and a compatible rotary hammer. A hammer drill and a rotary hammer are not the same tool: the latter uses a more forceful mechanism and accepts SDS bits.
Compare carbide-tipped masonry bit sets for occasional work. For repeated concrete drilling, look at SDS-Plus concrete bits, but buy them only if your tool has an SDS-Plus chuck.
Brick or mortar joint?
When fastening into a brick wall, decide whether the load belongs in the brick or the mortar. Brick is generally stronger, but drilling near an edge can crack it. Mortar is easier to drill and replace, but it is weaker and can crumble, so it is a poor choice for heavy loads or anchors that rely on firm surrounding material. For a light decoration, a suitable masonry anchor in sound mortar may be adequate; for a shelf, cabinet, or other substantial load, follow the anchor instructions and aim for sound brick where practical.
Use a mortar joint only if the joint is wide enough for the hole and in good condition. Avoid loose, sandy, cracked, or recently repaired mortar. If the bit suddenly sinks or the hole enlarges, stop: the material may be soft or fractured, and an anchor may not hold. Do not assume a larger anchor fixes weak masonry.
Drill cleanly and safely
Mark the hole, check for wiring and pipes, and put on eye protection. Set the depth stop if your drill has one, or mark the bit with tape. Drill a little deeper than the anchor’s specified embedment so dust does not prevent the anchor from seating. Follow the anchor packaging for both hole diameter and depth; even a small mismatch can make a plug spin or fail to grip.
On a hammer drill, use hammer mode for concrete and hard brick. Start slowly and keep the bit square to the wall, then increase speed while applying steady pressure. Do not lean your full weight on the tool. Let the carbide tip work. If the bit wanders on a smooth surface, make a shallow starting mark or begin in rotation-only mode, then switch to hammer mode once the tip is seated.
For brittle brick, especially near edges, use light pressure and consider rotation-only mode if hammering chips the face. Softer brick and mortar often need less force than concrete. If drilling tile over masonry, use a tile-compatible bit and hammer mode off until the bit has passed through the tile; hammering too early can crack it.
Dust, wear, and common failures
Withdraw the bit occasionally to clear dust, especially in deeper holes. Packed dust makes drilling slower and can bind the bit. After drilling, remove dust from the hole using the method recommended by the anchor maker; a dirty hole can weaken the anchor’s grip. Avoid blowing dust toward your face, and use suitable dust collection or respiratory protection when conditions require it. Silica-containing concrete dust is a health hazard.
Stop if the bit gets hot, the drill bogs down, or progress stalls. A blunt or overheated bit, excessive pressure, a weak battery, or a hidden hard aggregate can all cause slow drilling. Let the bit cool naturally; dunking a hot bit in water can damage it. If you repeatedly hit metal, stop and identify what it is rather than forcing the bit through. Rebar may require a different bit and can dull a masonry cutter.
A cheap bit is fine for a few shallow holes in soft brick or mortar. It is a false economy if it wears out halfway through a concrete job. Buy only the sizes you need when possible, keep bits clean, and replace one that is visibly chipped or no longer cuts. For anchors, accuracy matters more than buying the most expensive bit: match the specified diameter, keep the hole straight, and use sound masonry.