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A hammer drill can make clean holes in brick and concrete, but its extra force can also chip a brick face, widen a hole, or crack the edge of a block. The safest approach is to use the right bit, support the surface, and add hammer action only when the material calls for it. For small holes in mortar or soft brick, a regular drill may be enough.
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Choose the right tool for the material
A standard drill rotates the bit. A hammer drill adds short, rapid blows along the bit’s axis while it rotates. That action helps a masonry bit cut harder material, but it is unnecessary for many small holes in soft brick or mortar. Start with rotation only; switch on hammer mode if progress is slow.
For ordinary wall anchors, a cordless hammer drill with a masonry bit is usually the practical choice. A rotary hammer uses a different hammering mechanism and is better for frequent drilling, larger holes, and harder concrete. It is usually more tool than you need for a few small anchor holes. Compare cordless hammer drills and rotary hammers by the work you expect to do, not just by voltage or advertised impact rate.
| Surface and hole | Good starting setup | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Soft brick or mortar; small hole | Standard drill, rotation only | Less chipping, but slower if the material is dense |
| Brick or concrete; typical anchor hole | Hammer drill and sharp masonry bit | Faster drilling; more risk of surface damage if pushed hard |
| Hard concrete; repeated or larger holes | Rotary hammer and suitable bit | More capable, heavier, and often unnecessary for occasional light work |
Match the bit to the anchor
Use a masonry bit sized to the anchor maker’s instructions. The hole is commonly the same diameter as the anchor, but follow the package: some systems specify a different size. A bit that is too large leaves the anchor loose; one that is too small can prevent the anchor from seating and tempt you to force it.
Carbide-tipped masonry bits are suitable for typical brick and concrete anchor holes. A sharp bit cuts more cleanly and needs less pressure than a worn one. A quality carbide-tipped masonry bit set is a sensible buy if you expect to drill different anchor sizes. For one or two holes, a correctly sized single bit is fine.
Check that the bit fits the drill’s chuck and is seated straight. A wobbling bit can make an oversized, rough hole. Don’t use a wood or metal bit for masonry; it can overheat, dull quickly, and make little progress.
Mark and support the surface
Before drilling, check for electrical cables and pipes using a suitable detector, and avoid drilling directly above or below outlets and plumbing fixtures unless you know what is behind the wall. Confirm that the anchor and fastener are suitable for the load and the type of masonry. A light picture hook and a loaded shelf do not call for the same fixing.
Mark the hole with a pencil, then place a small piece of masking tape over the spot if the bit tends to skate on a smooth surface. Tape can help with grip, but it will not prevent a brick from cracking. Keep holes away from edges and corners; as a practical starting point, leave at least 25–50 mm where the layout allows, and follow the anchor manufacturer’s minimum edge distance for heavier fixings. Drilling close to an edge can split brick or break out a corner.
Wear eye protection and a dust mask rated for fine dust. Masonry dust is hazardous to breathe. If drilling overhead, use additional dust control, such as a suitable vacuum attachment. Keep both hands on the drill and stand on a stable surface.
Drill with control, not force
Set the depth stop if your drill has one. Otherwise, wrap tape around the bit at the required depth, allowing extra room only if the anchor instructions call for it. Start with rotation only at low speed and light pressure. Once the bit has made a small, stable indentation, engage hammer mode if needed. Use a steady grip and let the bit do the work; pressing hard can stall the motor, overheat the bit, or make the drill jump when it breaks through.
Keep the drill square to the wall. If you lean the tool, the hole can become angled or enlarged at the opening, leaving an anchor that sits crooked or spins. Pull the bit out briefly every few seconds to clear dust, especially in deeper holes. If progress stops, don’t keep leaning harder: withdraw the bit, clear the hole, and check for a dull or overheated bit, a change in material, or an obstruction.
Stop if the brick begins to crack, the surface flakes away, or the tool bucks. A crack may mean the hole is too close to an edge, the hammer action is too aggressive, or the masonry is weak. Try a new location if the fixing layout permits. On fragile facing brick, mortar joints may be easier to repair but are not automatically stronger or suitable for every anchor; check the fixing instructions.
Clean the hole and fit the anchor
When the hole reaches depth, stop the drill before withdrawing the bit. Clear loose dust with a hand pump or vacuum; dust left in the hole can stop an anchor from seating and reduce its grip. Avoid blowing masonry dust toward your face. Check the hole diameter and depth against the anchor instructions, then press or tap the anchor into place as directed. If it spins, sits loosely, or won’t enter without excessive force, don’t compensate by overtightening the screw. Use the correct hole size and anchor, or move to sound masonry.
For most small household holes, a standard drill used carefully is the cheaper, gentler option in soft brick or mortar. Reserve hammer mode for material that resists rotation-only drilling, and a rotary hammer for jobs where repeated work or hard concrete justifies its added weight and cost.