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The right masonry bit depends on the hole size, the concrete, and how often you drill. For a few small holes in a concrete wall, a standard carbide-tipped bit may be enough. For repeated anchor holes or dense concrete, a quality SDS-Plus bit cuts faster and is less likely to slip or overheat. First check that your cordless hammer drill accepts the bit’s shank: most three-jaw chucks take round or hex shanks, while SDS-Plus bits require an SDS-Plus chuck.
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Choose the right bit for the drill and job
For occasional holes in brick, block, or poured concrete, look at carbide-tipped masonry bit sets. They’re widely available in common anchor sizes and fit ordinary drill chucks. A basic set is a sensible buy if you need a handful of holes and already own a hammer drill.
For frequent drilling, consider SDS-Plus concrete bits, but only if your drill has an SDS-Plus holder. The slotted shank locks into the chuck and moves back and forth during hammering, transferring impact more effectively than a smooth shank clamped in a standard chuck. SDS-Plus bits are not a fit for ordinary three-jaw chucks; an adapter is not a good substitute for the proper chuck on demanding work.
Masonry bit options compared
| Bit type | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Basic carbide-tipped, round shank | Occasional small holes in brick or concrete | Slower in hard concrete; can spin or wander in a worn chuck |
| Premium carbide-tipped, round or hex shank | Regular anchor holes with a standard chuck | Costs more; still limited by chuck grip and drill power |
| SDS-Plus, two-cutter | Repeated holes and general concrete drilling | Requires an SDS-Plus drill |
| SDS-Plus, four-cutter head | Dense or reinforced concrete, where the bit may meet aggregate | Higher purchase cost; not necessary for occasional soft masonry |
Match the diameter to the anchor
Use the hole diameter specified by the anchor manufacturer, not the screw diameter. A typical plastic wall plug might call for a 6 mm hole; common concrete screw and sleeve-anchor sizes use their own specified bit diameters. Check the packaging before drilling. An oversized hole can leave a plug loose or prevent an anchor from gripping, while an undersized hole may make installation difficult or damage the fastener.
Buy the exact diameter you need for a critical anchor installation. A set is convenient for mixed household jobs, but inexpensive sets sometimes skip useful sizes or include bits that are poorly matched to hard concrete. For a run of identical holes, a single replacement bit in the right size is often a better purchase than a large assortment.
Drill without burning up the bit
Mark the hole and start slowly, keeping the drill square to the surface. Let the hammer mechanism work; pressing hard does not necessarily speed the cut and can overheat the carbide tip or strain a cordless drill. For deeper holes, withdraw the bit every few seconds to clear dust. Packed dust increases friction, slows progress, and can make the bit seize.
Use hammer mode for concrete and most masonry. For fragile tile or delicate surfaces, begin without hammer action so the tip does not crack the face, then switch modes only after reaching the masonry behind it. If the bit skates, make a small starting dimple or use a guide. Do not force a standard masonry bit through steel reinforcement: stop if progress suddenly stalls, withdraw it, and check whether the hole location can be moved.
Know when the drill is the limiting factor
A compact cordless hammer drill can handle small anchor holes, but large diameters and deep holes are a different job. A 6–8 mm hole in ordinary concrete is reasonable with a suitable hammer drill and sharp bit. Repeated 10–12 mm holes, especially in dense concrete, can drain a battery quickly and make a three-jaw chuck run hot. A corded or cordless SDS-Plus rotary hammer is usually more efficient for that work.
Check the drill’s manual for its maximum masonry bit diameter. A bit may physically fit the chuck while exceeding what the drill can drive effectively. If the tool stalls, the battery overheats, or drilling speed drops sharply, pause and let it cool rather than leaning harder. Use eye protection, keep the work area clear, and check for wiring or plumbing before drilling into a wall.
When to replace a bit
A dull bit takes longer, needs more pressure, and leaves a dusty, slow-cutting hole. Compare it with a sharp bit of the same size: if it advances noticeably more slowly or the carbide edge looks chipped, replace it. Don’t judge a bit only by its color; some manufacturers use coatings or finishes that vary. For occasional home use, a moderately priced carbide-tipped bit is often adequate. Paying more makes sense when you need consistent holes, drill frequently, or work in hard concrete—not simply because a package claims a higher speed.