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Choose the right tool for the material
A hammer drill spins the bit while adding a rapid forward-and-back tapping action. That action helps a masonry bit cut brick, concrete block, and concrete. It is useful for holes for wall plugs, sleeve anchors, and similar fasteners. It is not the same as a rotary hammer, which uses a more forceful piston mechanism and is better suited to frequent, larger holes in concrete.
For occasional holes about 1/4 to 3/8 inch in diameter, a corded or cordless hammer drill is usually enough. A basic cordless hammer drill is convenient for work around a house, but check its stated drilling capacity and battery platform before buying. For repeated holes above 1/2 inch, deep holes, or concrete with hard aggregate, a rotary hammer is faster and puts less strain on the operator.
| Tool | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Drill/driver | Wood, metal, and small tasks that do not need hammer action | Slow and likely to overheat if used to bore masonry |
| Hammer drill | Occasional small- to medium-size holes in brick, block, or concrete | Needs firm pressure; slower in hard concrete than a rotary hammer |
| Rotary hammer | Frequent concrete drilling, larger holes, or chiseling when supported | Heavier and more expensive; unnecessary for a few small holes |
If the job is only a couple of small holes in soft brick, a less expensive hammer drill can be fine. If you are installing many concrete anchors, renting a rotary hammer can cost less in time and frustration.
Select the bit and anchor together
Use a masonry bit with a carbide tip, sized for the anchor rather than guessed from its label. Many plastic wall plugs call for a hole the same nominal diameter as the plug—for example, a 1/4-inch plug often uses a 1/4-inch bit—but follow the anchor maker’s instructions. Sleeve and wedge anchors may specify a particular bit size and minimum hole depth. A hole that is too wide can leave an anchor spinning or pulling out.
For a standard hammer drill, buy round-shank masonry bits that fit its chuck. SDS-plus bits fit rotary hammers with an SDS-plus holder, not an ordinary three-jaw chuck unless the tool has a suitable adapter. An adapter can add wobble and is a poor substitute for the correct tool when accuracy matters. A carbide-tipped masonry bit set is useful for common small holes; for repeated use, a quality single bit in the exact size is often a better buy.
Check what is behind the drilling spot. Avoid electrical cables, plumbing, and heating pipes; use an appropriate detector and consult building plans where available. Do not drill into a lintel, reinforced section, or post-tensioned concrete without knowing what is inside. If the hole is for a heavy load, choose an anchor rated for the base material and load, not merely one that fits the hole.
Set up safely
Wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Masonry dust can contain respirable silica, especially when drilling concrete; use an appropriate dust-control method, such as a drill dust shroud connected to a suitable extractor, and follow local safety guidance. Do not blow dust around with compressed air. A basic dust mask is not a substitute for proper controls on dusty work.
Fit the bit fully in the chuck and tighten it securely. Mark the center with a pencil or punch, then set a depth stop or wrap tape around the bit as a visual guide. Keep the hole away from edges: as a practical starting point, leave at least the anchor maker’s specified edge distance, since a hole close to a brick or block edge can crack or break out. Support the drill with two hands, keep the side handle installed if supplied, and stand where a snagging bit will not twist you off balance.
Drill the hole
Set the drill to hammer mode for masonry and use a low gear if it has selectable gears. Start slowly with the bit perpendicular to the surface. Once the tip has made a shallow seat, increase speed and apply firm, steady pressure. Let the carbide tip and hammer action do the work; leaning hard on the drill can stall it, overheat the bit, or make it wander. Avoid excessive speed if the bit is getting hot or the hole is filling with dust.
Back the bit out every few seconds on deeper holes to clear dust. This matters because packed debris can bind the bit and make it overheat. If progress stops, pull the bit out and clear the hole rather than forcing it. A sudden stop may mean you have hit hard aggregate, metal reinforcement, or something else concealed. Do not keep hammering through suspected rebar or utilities. Move the hole only if the anchor layout and structural requirements allow it.
In brick, drill into the body of the brick rather than the mortar joint unless the anchor instructions specifically call for a joint. Mortar is often weaker and less consistent. Hollow block is different: heavy fasteners may need an anchor made for hollow masonry, or a fastening point in a filled cell. A standard expansion anchor can crush a thin block face or fail to grip its hollow interior.
Clean the hole and install the fastener
Stop at the required depth, then remove dust from the hole with a suitable vacuum or the cleaning method specified by the anchor manufacturer. Dust left at the bottom can stop an anchor from seating fully. For adhesive anchors, hole cleaning is especially important; follow the product’s stated brushing and blowing sequence and use the specified equipment.
Test-fit the anchor without forcing it. If a plastic plug spins, the hole may be oversized, dusty, or in weak material. Do not solve that by driving in a larger screw at random. Choose a compatible anchor, relocate the fastener if appropriate, or consult the manufacturer’s load data. Tighten mechanical anchors to the specified torque when one is given. Overtightening can strip a screw, damage soft masonry, or weaken the hold.
Common problems and fixes
A wandering hole usually starts with a dull or poorly seated bit, a rounded surface, or an awkward drill angle. Start at low speed, hold the drill square, and replace a worn bit. A hole that is slow in concrete may call for a sharper bit, a properly sized rotary hammer, or simply a different drilling location; more pressure is rarely the answer. If the drill or bit becomes very hot, stop and let it cool rather than continuing until the tip loses its cutting edge.
For one or two small holes, a hammer drill is often the sensible purchase. For a day of anchor installation in concrete, compare the cost of a rental rotary hammer with the time saved. Whatever tool you choose, matching the bit, hole, and anchor to the actual masonry is what makes the fastening reliable.