What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
A stripped screw is not automatically a job for more torque. An impact driver can help when the bit still has enough grip to turn the screw, but it can also chew the head beyond repair in seconds. Start with the right bit and a careful test; move to extraction only if that fails.
What we cover
Check the screw before reaching for the trigger
Clear paint, rust, dirt, or debris from the recess with a pick or small brush. Check whether the screw is Phillips, Pozidriv, Torx, square, or another drive type. A Phillips bit in a Pozidriv screw may seem to fit but can slip under load. Use the correct shape and size, and inspect the bit for rounded or chipped edges.
Choose a fresh bit that fills the recess closely, with as little side-to-side movement as possible. For a damaged Phillips or square recess, a slightly oversized bit may bite better, but do not force a bit that will not seat. If the screw is small, recessed, or holding delicate material, a hand screwdriver gives you more control than an impact driver.
Set up the impact driver carefully
Use a short, impact-rated driver bit rather than a long extension if access allows. A short bit flexes less and is less likely to wobble. If you need an adapter, check that it is rated for impact use; ordinary drill accessories can break under repeated blows. A set of impact-rated driver bits is a sensible purchase if your current bits are worn or not made for an impact driver.
Put the tool in a low-speed setting if it has one. Set the clutch or assist mode, if available, to a restrained setting, and start with short trigger taps. Impact drivers deliver rotational blows, not the forward hammering action of a hammer drill. Keep the tool square to the screw and press firmly enough to keep the bit seated, but do not lean so hard that you deform the workpiece.
Try controlled bursts, not full throttle
Seat the bit fully in the recess. Pull the trigger for a fraction of a second, then stop and check whether the screw moved. If it turns, continue with short bursts while maintaining pressure. Once it breaks free, ease off the trigger; a driver can quickly bury the screw or strip the remaining head.
If the bit climbs out, stop immediately. Repeated slipping rounds the recess further and may damage the surrounding surface. Try one of these adjustments: switch to the exact bit type, use a fresh bit, or press the bit into the head while turning the screw by hand. For a screw with a shallow Phillips recess, a hand impact driver—a tool struck with a hammer to turn a bit—can work better because it adds downward force as it turns. It is inexpensive, but needs room for hammer swings and can damage fragile materials.
Choose the next step by the type of damage
| Situation | Try next | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Bit slips, but the recess is still recognizable | Correct, fresh bit; firm pressure; short driver bursts | Fast and low-cost, but repeated attempts can finish stripping the head |
| Head is rounded, but stands above the surface | Locking pliers on the head | Often effective; needs exposed head and may mar it |
| Head is flush or recessed and the drive is ruined | Left-hand drill bit or screw extractor | More controlled than forcing the driver, but requires careful drilling |
| Screw is small or in delicate material | Hand screwdriver, pliers, or a repair shop | Slower, but reduces the chance of collateral damage |
Remove a badly stripped screw
If the head sticks up, grip its sides with locking pliers and turn counterclockwise in small increments. Clamp tightly enough to prevent slipping, but avoid crushing a thin screw head. This is often a better first choice than drilling because it does not enlarge a hole or create metal chips.
For a flush or recessed screw, an extractor may be appropriate. Center-punch the screw head so the drill does not wander. Drill a small pilot hole, following the extractor maker’s instructions for diameter and depth, then turn the extractor slowly by hand or with a low-speed drill. Do not use the impact driver to drive an extractor: the hard impacts can snap it. Extractors are brittle, and a broken extractor is difficult to drill out. A basic screw extractor set can handle occasional repairs; for a single screw, borrowing one may be more sensible.
A left-hand drill bit can sometimes back a screw out as it cuts, so you may not need an extractor. Use steady, low-speed drilling and keep the bit centered. If the screw is hardened, the bit may skate or fail to cut. Stop if the hole wanders toward the surrounding material.
Avoid the common ways to make it worse
Do not keep increasing speed when the bit slips; speed mainly creates heat and more damage. Avoid using a drill bit as a driver bit, or using a non-impact-rated extension in an impact driver. Do not assume a more powerful tool will solve a poor fit. On a screw embedded in wood, a little penetrating oil may help with corrosion, but it will not restore a damaged drive recess. Keep oil off surfaces where you need paint or adhesive to bond.
Stop before drilling if the screw is near wiring, plumbing, glass, or a finished surface you cannot afford to damage. When reinstalling, replace the screw rather than reusing its damaged head. Start the replacement by hand for several turns, then finish with the appropriate driver and avoid over-tightening. For future work, a correctly matched magnetic impact-rated bit holder can help keep the bit aligned, though it cannot compensate for the wrong bit size or a worn screw.