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A small electrical enclosure may weigh only a few pounds, but its cables, cover, and any force applied while servicing it can pull on the fasteners. The right anchor depends less on the enclosure’s size than on the wall material, the enclosure’s loaded weight, and how securely the box must stay put. First check the enclosure maker’s instructions and local electrical requirements; anchors do not replace proper cable support or a suitable electrical box.
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Check the wall and load
Identify what is behind the finish before buying hardware. A magnet or stud finder can help locate studs, but verify carefully: metal corner bead, pipes, and wiring can confuse readings. If you can fasten to a stud, that is usually the strongest and simplest option. Use screws compatible with the enclosure’s mounting holes and the stud material, and avoid drilling where concealed wiring or plumbing may run.
For a hollow-wall installation, add up the enclosure’s weight, its contents, and any cable pull or handling force. A 2-pound empty box can become a 5-pound assembly once fitted with devices or wiring. Do not choose an anchor solely because its package lists a high maximum rating: ratings vary by wall material, drywall thickness, installation quality, and test method. Use the manufacturer’s load guidance for the exact wall type, and leave a safety margin.
Compare the common anchor types
| Anchor type | Best use | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| Plastic expansion anchor | Very light loads in sound drywall, when failure would not create a hazard | Cheap and quick, but limited holding power; can loosen or pull out under repeated tugging |
| Self-drilling drywall anchor | Light to moderate loads where the wall is not damaged | Fast to install, but the large head may not fit an enclosure’s mounting hole; can tear paper or spin during installation |
| Metal hollow-wall anchor (molly) | More secure, removable screw mounting in suitable drywall | Needs a correctly sized pilot hole and proper setting; removal can leave a larger hole |
| Toggle bolt or strap toggle | Heavier loads or greater resistance to pull-out in hollow walls | Requires a larger hole and space behind the wall; the toggle can drop into the cavity if a traditional bolt is removed |
What to buy for a small enclosure
For a light enclosure on intact, standard 1/2-inch drywall, a quality self-drilling anchor can be adequate if the anchor’s head seats flat and the load rating suits the complete assembly. It is the low-cost, low-tool choice, but not a good answer for a box that will be opened often, a location where cables may be tugged, or drywall that is soft or damaged. Choose a version with a screw that fits the enclosure’s mounting slot; a broad anchor head can otherwise prevent the box from sitting flush.
When you want a firmer attachment, consider a metal molly anchor kit for 1/2-inch drywall. These expand behind the board and usually hold more securely than basic plastic anchors when installed correctly. A setting tool makes the job more consistent, especially if you are installing several. Check the required hole diameter and wall thickness on the package; forcing an oversized anchor into the board can crush the gypsum and reduce its grip.
For a heavier enclosure, a box subject to cable strain, or any installation where a pull-out could damage equipment, use a strap toggle anchor if there is clear cavity space behind the drywall. Its broad wings spread the load over a larger area than a small expansion anchor. The larger hole is harder to hide, and the toggle will not work where insulation, a pipe, or a narrow cavity blocks its wings. If the enclosure has two mounting points, use both and follow its instructions rather than relying on one oversized anchor.
Drill and install without damaging the wall
Mark the holes through the enclosure or a paper template, then check that the enclosure will sit level and that cables can enter without being strained. Use the drill-bit diameter specified by the anchor maker. For a small pilot hole, a cordless drill with a standard twist bit is usually all you need; use a hammer drill only when drilling masonry, not drywall. A hammer drill can tear up gypsum, while an impact driver can over-tighten screws and spin anchors. Drive the screw slowly with a drill clutch set low, or finish by hand.
Keep the hole clean and perpendicular to the wall. If an anchor spins, stop rather than driving it harder: the hole may be too large, the drywall may be weak, or the anchor may be the wrong style. Move to a fresh location if the enclosure allows it, or use a different fixing method. Do not reuse a damaged hole by inserting a larger screw into a spinning plastic anchor. For a toggle, confirm that the wings open behind the wall before tightening; tighten only until the enclosure is secure, since excess force can crush drywall.
Electrical and load safety
Anchors hold the enclosure to the wall; they do not support unsupported cable, protect conductors from sharp edges, or make a non-listed box suitable for electrical work. Use the enclosure’s intended mounting points, appropriate cable fittings, and required strain relief. Before drilling, turn off circuits that may pass through the area and use a suitable detector where needed. If you cannot confirm what is behind the wall, choose another mounting location or consult a qualified electrician.
After mounting, check for movement by pressing gently on the enclosure—not by yanking its cables. Recheck the fasteners after wiring and after the first period of use. If the drywall flexes, cracks, or crumbles around a fastener, remove the load and repair the mounting rather than tightening further. For an enclosure that will be opened frequently or carries meaningful weight, fastening into framing is preferable whenever practical; hollow-wall anchors are a fallback, not a substitute for a sound mounting surface.