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For most holes in brick, a masonry bit is the straightforward choice. A multi-material bit can also work in brick, especially for a few small holes in a wall, but it is not automatically faster or tougher. The right pick depends on the brick, the hole size, your drill, and whether you need to make one hole or many.
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The quick answer
Choose a carbide-tipped masonry bit for regular work in brick, larger holes, or use with a hammer drill. Choose a multi-material bit for occasional small holes through brick and other household materials when you want one general-purpose bit. Check the bit maker’s instructions: some multi-material bits are intended for rotary drilling only and should not be used with hammer action.
For a typical plastic wall plug requiring a 6 mm hole, either type may do the job in sound, soft brick. In hard, fired brick or when drilling several holes, a masonry bit is usually the more dependable choice. If the brick is old or crumbly, hammer action can break out the hole’s edges, so a sharp bit in rotary-only mode may give a cleaner result.
How the bits differ
A masonry bit has a hard carbide tip shaped to scrape and crush masonry. It is made for abrasive materials such as brick, concrete block, and mortar. The tip and bit body are designed around that job, though inexpensive bits can wear quickly in hard brick or concrete.
A multi-material bit typically has a carbide cutting edge designed to drill several materials, which may include brick, tile, wood, and metal. That flexibility is handy for mixed jobs, but the cutting geometry is a compromise. In masonry, performance varies by bit and by wall; a multi-material bit may drill a small hole acceptably but struggle to match a dedicated masonry bit in hard brick or repeated use.
Masonry bit vs multi-material bit
| Factor | Masonry bit | Multi-material bit |
|---|---|---|
| Best use | Repeated holes in brick, block, and mortar | Occasional holes across several materials |
| Hard brick | Usually the safer choice, especially with a quality carbide tip | May work for small holes; can be slower or wear sooner |
| Hammer drill | Use a hammer-rated bit in hammer mode | Use hammer mode only if the bit maker explicitly permits it |
| Hole quality | Good when sharp and matched to the drill and material | Can be clean in soft brick with rotary drilling |
| Value | Best if brick drilling is a regular task | Good if you need one bit for occasional mixed-material jobs |
Choose by the job
For one or two small holes in soft brick, a multi-material bit can save you buying a dedicated bit. Drill slowly in rotary mode, clear dust from the hole, and stop if the bit overheats or stops cutting. A bit that skates, squeals, or takes several minutes to advance a short distance is not a bargain if it damages the wall or wastes your time.
For a shelf, curtain rail, or other fitting that needs multiple anchors, buy the correct-size masonry bit. Match the hole diameter to the anchor packaging; common plug sizes include 6 mm and 8 mm, but the required diameter varies. A hole that is too large can let the plug spin or pull out. A hole that is too shallow prevents the screw from seating fully. Drill slightly deeper than the plug length to leave room for dust, while keeping clear of hidden pipes and cables.
If you are drilling near the edge of a brick, avoid hammer action at first. Impact can chip the face or split a brittle brick, particularly close to an edge or mortar joint. Start with rotary mode and light pressure; switch to hammer mode only if the bit is rated for it and progress is too slow. For a neat finish, many installers prefer drilling into the brick rather than the mortar, unless the fitting or wall condition calls for a mortar joint.
Drill, speed, and technique matter
A cordless drill in rotary mode can handle small holes in softer brick, but drilling hard masonry with a basic drill may be slow. A hammer drill adds rapid blows that help a masonry bit advance. Use a bit with a round shank for a standard chuck, or the correct SDS shank for an SDS drill; these systems are not interchangeable. For a hammer drill and regular brick work, compare carbide-tipped masonry drill bits with the sizes you need rather than buying an oversized assortment.
Keep the drill square to the wall and use steady pressure, not your full body weight. Excess force can overheat the tip, stall the drill, or make the bit wander. Back the bit out every few seconds to clear dust, particularly in deeper holes. Wear eye protection and a suitable dust mask: brick dust is harmful to breathe. A vacuum nozzle held near the hole helps control the mess, but do not rely on it as a substitute for respiratory protection where dust exposure is significant.
If you only need occasional holes in different materials, a multi-material drill bit can be a sensible buy. Check its stated shank type, size range, and whether hammer drilling is allowed. Do not assume “multi-material” means suitable for concrete, heavy use, or every hammer drill.
Common failures to avoid
A dull or overheated bit often turns a simple hole into a slow, ragged job. If the tip becomes very hot, let it cool; do not quench it in water unless the manufacturer allows that, since sudden cooling can damage the tip. If a bit keeps slipping in the chuck, stop and reseat it. If the hole is wider than the anchor requires or the brick crumbles around it, move the fixing point if possible and use an anchor suited to the damaged substrate.
Do not force an anchor into a dusty hole. Vacuum or brush out loose dust, then check the plug fit before inserting the screw. For heavy loads, a standard plastic plug may be unsuitable regardless of which bit made the hole; select a fixing rated for the wall material and expected load. The cheaper multi-material bit is fine for a small, low-risk job in soft brick. For hard brick, repeated holes, or a fixing you need to trust, a proper masonry bit is the better tool for the job.