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For a few holes for sleeve or wedge anchors, a cordless hammer drill is often enough. For repeated holes, larger diameters, or hard concrete, a rotary hammer is faster and easier on your hands. The right choice depends on the anchor’s required hole diameter and depth, the concrete, and how many holes you need to drill.
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What we cover
Start with the anchor specifications
Look up the anchor manufacturer’s instructions before choosing a tool or bit. They specify the hole diameter, minimum depth, and sometimes the required drill type. A typical 3/8-inch concrete anchor may call for a 3/8-inch hole, but do not assume the anchor’s stated size is the bit size. Follow the instructions, and drill deep enough to allow for dust and any embedment requirements.
Also check the tool’s chuck and bit compatibility. Most hammer drills use round-shank masonry bits and a standard three-jaw chuck. Rotary hammers typically use SDS-Plus bits; larger models may use SDS-Max. A bit that does not fit the chuck cannot be used, and adapters are a poor substitute for the right system when drilling concrete.
How the tools differ
A hammer drill spins the bit while adding a rapid, short hammering action. That works well for small holes in brick, block, and softer concrete, especially when you are drilling only occasionally. A rotary hammer uses a piston mechanism to deliver stronger blows through the bit. In hammer-only mode, many rotary hammers can also chip tile or light masonry without spinning.
The difference shows up as the concrete gets harder, the hole gets bigger, or the count rises. A hammer drill can become slow and tiring, and its chuck may loosen under sustained vibration. A rotary hammer usually keeps the bit cutting with less pressure from the user. It is not automatically the better purchase for a handful of small holes: SDS bits cost more, and the tool is heavier and bulkier.
Quick comparison
| Job condition | Hammer drill | Rotary hammer |
|---|---|---|
| Two or three small anchor holes | Usually adequate | Works, but may be more tool than needed |
| Several holes in hard concrete | Slower; requires more pressure | Usually faster and less tiring |
| Large holes or repeated work | Can bog down and overheat | Better suited to sustained drilling |
| Bits and chuck | Usually round-shank masonry bit | Usually SDS-Plus or SDS-Max bit |
| Other work | General drilling with hammer mode off | Often offers drill-only and chipping modes |
When a hammer drill is enough
Choose a hammer drill if you are installing a few anchors with small specified holes—often around 1/4 to 3/8 inch—in sound concrete or masonry. Use a sharp carbide-tipped masonry bit, let the tool work, and avoid forcing it. The job may take longer than with an SDS rotary hammer, but buying or renting the larger tool may not make sense for a one-time project.
A cordless hammer drill is also a practical choice if you need one tool for wood, metal, and occasional masonry. Check its published drilling capacity and whether the masonry setting can be turned off; normal drilling should not use hammer mode. For anchor work, battery condition matters: a nearly depleted battery can make an already slow hole much worse.
When to choose a rotary hammer
Consider a rotary hammer if you have a dozen or more holes, need holes larger than the anchor work you usually do, or are drilling dense, hard concrete. It is also the sensible choice when a hammer drill is taking several minutes per hole or when you have to lean heavily on it. If the work is limited to one project, renting can be cheaper than buying a rotary hammer and a set of SDS bits.
For typical home anchor holes, an SDS-Plus tool and matching bits are usually the relevant category; SDS-Max tools are aimed at heavier drilling and demolition. Compare the tool’s stated concrete capacity with the hole sizes you actually need. A cordless SDS-Plus rotary hammer avoids a cord but adds battery weight and cost. For many holes in one place, a corded rental may be the better value.
Drill the hole correctly
Mark the anchor locations and check for hidden pipes and wiring before drilling. Use a detector where appropriate, and avoid drilling into an area you cannot safely verify. Put on eye protection and hearing protection; concrete dust is hazardous, so use a suitable dust extractor or vacuum setup and follow the tool and dust-control guidance. Do not dry-sweep the dust.
Hold the bit square to the surface. Start slowly to establish the hole, then use steady pressure. Pushing hard can stall the tool, overheat the bit, or widen the hole. If you hit a hard obstruction, stop and investigate rather than forcing the bit; it may be reinforcing steel, a utility, or aggregate. Do not drill through rebar unless the project instructions allow it.
Clear dust from the hole as directed by the anchor maker. Dust left at the bottom can prevent an anchor from seating fully and can reduce the reliability of some adhesive anchors. Check the depth with a depth stop or mark the bit, and use the specified cleaning method. After installation, tighten the anchor as instructed—over-tightening can damage the concrete or compromise the fastening.
A practical buying decision
For a small batch of ordinary anchor holes, use a sound hammer drill and the correct masonry bit. If the holes are numerous, large, or unusually slow, step up to a rotary hammer or rent one. For occasional users who want a general-purpose cordless tool, the hammer drill is the cheaper, more versatile choice; for recurring concrete work, the rotary hammer saves time and effort. In either case, the anchor instructions and a sharp, compatible bit matter as much as the tool.