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The short answer
For occasional holes in brick, a regular cordless drill can be enough—if it has a hammer mode, or if the brick is soft and you use a sharp masonry bit with patience. For repeated holes, hard brick, concrete block, or concrete, choose a cordless hammer drill. Its hammering action helps the bit break material instead of relying only on rotation.
Check the tool type before buying: “hammer drill” usually means a drill with a selectable hammer mode, while a rotary hammer uses a different mechanism and SDS bits. A standard drill has no hammering action. Don’t confuse any of these with an impact driver, which is made mainly for driving fasteners, not drilling masonry.
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What the tools do
A standard cordless drill spins the bit. A hammer drill adds short, rapid blows along the bit’s axis while it rotates. This helps a carbide-tipped masonry bit chip its way into masonry. In hammer mode, the tool is noisy and vibrates more; switch to drill mode for wood, metal, and screwdriving.
A rotary hammer delivers stronger blows through a piston mechanism and typically accepts SDS bits. It is the better choice for frequent or larger holes in concrete, but it costs more and is bulkier. For a few small holes in brick, it can be unnecessary.
How the options compare
| Tool | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Standard cordless drill | Soft brick, a few small holes, or jobs where you can borrow a hammer drill | Slow in hard masonry; forcing it can overheat the bit or stall the motor |
| Cordless hammer drill | Regular small-to-medium holes in brick and block | More vibration and weight than a standard drill; less effective than a rotary hammer in concrete |
| Rotary hammer | Repeated or larger holes in concrete and hard masonry | Higher cost and more tool than most occasional anchor jobs need |
Which one should you buy?
If you already own a standard drill and need two or three holes for lightweight wall anchors in soft brick, try it before buying another tool. Use a quality carbide masonry bit, start slowly, and let the bit cut without leaning hard on the drill. It may take longer, but that can be a sensible trade for a small job.
For recurring work, a cordless hammer drill is the practical middle ground. Compare battery platform, weight, and whether the hammer mode can be switched off. If you are buying a tool just for one repair, renting or borrowing may cost less.
If the work involves many holes, holes larger than roughly 1/2 inch, or concrete rather than brick, consider a cordless SDS-plus rotary hammer. Check the manufacturer’s stated capacity in concrete and the bit system it accepts. Capacity is not a promise that every battery will perform equally well; a larger battery may add runtime but also weight.
Match the bit to the anchor
Use a masonry bit with a carbide tip, not a wood or general-purpose bit. Match the diameter to the anchor’s instructions: a common 1/4-inch plastic wall plug usually calls for a 1/4-inch hole, but follow the package rather than guessing. The hole should be deep enough for the anchor plus a little clearance for dust, often around 1/4 inch deeper than the plug.
Brick faces and mortar joints behave differently. Brick is often the stronger choice for a loaded fixing, but brittle or damaged brick can crack near an edge. Mortar is easier to drill and patch, but may crumble and hold poorly. Check the anchor maker’s guidance and the condition of the wall; don’t assume an anchor rated for concrete is suitable for every brick wall. For heavy loads, use a masonry-rated anchor matched to the substrate and load, not a small plastic plug.
Drill without damaging the wall
First check for pipes and cables, and use eye protection. Mark the hole and hold the drill square to the surface. Start with the hammer action off if the bit wanders, then engage it once the tip is seated. Use steady, moderate pressure. Excessive force can make the bit bind, overheat, or break; it can also chip the brick face.
Pull the bit out periodically to clear dust, especially in deeper holes. If progress stops, don’t keep pushing: the bit may be dull, the hole may be packed with dust, or you may have hit a hard inclusion. Stop, withdraw the bit, and inspect. A hammer drill can still struggle in hard concrete; switching to a rotary hammer may be the right fix.
When drilling close to a brick edge, keep a generous margin—at least about 1 inch where the layout allows—and avoid placing several holes close together. The exact safe spacing depends on brick condition, anchor design, and load. If the brick begins to spall or crack, stop and move the fixing rather than enlarging the damaged hole.
Common mistakes to avoid
Don’t use an impact driver as a substitute for a hammer drill. Its rotational impacts help turn screws and bolts, but they do not provide the forward hammering action needed for efficient masonry drilling. A masonry bit may fit the chuck or adapter, but that does not make the tool suitable.
Don’t leave hammer mode on when drilling wood or metal, and don’t use a hammer drill’s hammer setting to drive screws. Both can damage the work or fastener. For ordinary fastening, switch to drill or clutch mode, or use an impact driver with a suitable driver bit. For brick and masonry holes, choose the tool based on how often you drill, the material, and the hole size—not on the word “hammer” alone.