What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Thin plywood is easy to drill through, but it is also easy to splinter. The bit can tear the top veneer as it exits the back, wander across the surface, or grab and pull the panel out of position. For most clean holes, a sharp brad-point bit is the best starting choice. For larger holes, a Forstner bit or hole saw may suit better, depending on the diameter and how clean the back needs to be.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
What we cover
Choose the bit by hole size
For holes roughly 1/8 to 1/2 inch across, use a brad-point bit. Its center spur helps keep the bit on your mark, while the outer cutting edges score the veneer before the main cutting lips remove material. That scoring is what usually gives it a cleaner edge than a general-purpose twist bit.
For flat-bottomed holes or diameters around 1/2 to 2 inches, a Forstner bit can make a neat entry. It needs a steady drill and firm clamping, though, and it can tear out at the back of thin stock unless you use a backing board. For holes larger than that, a hole saw is usually the practical choice. Its trade-off is a rougher edge and more vibration, especially in a cordless drill.
| Bit type | Best use in thin plywood | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Brad-point | Small, accurate holes with clean veneer edges | Can bend or wander if pushed sideways |
| Twist bit | Inexpensive general-purpose drilling | More likely to skate or chip veneer |
| Forstner | Larger, clean entry holes and flat bottoms | Needs backing, clamping, and a slower feed |
| Hole saw | Large pass-through holes | Can leave rough edges and grab at breakthrough |
What to buy
A quality brad-point set is the most useful purchase if your work involves small holes for screws, dowels, or hardware. Look for clearly marked sizes and a full-ground cutting edge; a basic set is fine for occasional work, but very cheap bits may arrive dull or cut unevenly. A brad-point drill bit set covers the common sizes without requiring a specialist bit for every job.
If you only need a few holes, buying one good bit in the right size is often better than buying a large set. A standard twist bit can be adequate for rough holes hidden by a washer or fitting. For visible holes in plywood, the extra control from a brad-point bit is usually worth the modest cost.
For larger openings, choose a Forstner bit when a clean, controlled cut matters more than speed. A hole saw costs less for occasional large holes and is easier to find in common diameters, but its pilot bit can push through abruptly and damage the back face. Consider a Forstner bit set for repeated cabinet or jig work, or a wood hole saw kit for occasional large pass-through holes.
Drill for a clean exit
Clamp the plywood to a sacrificial backing board before drilling. The backing supports the fibers as the bit exits and is the most reliable way to reduce breakout on the underside. If the panel cannot be clamped, at least hold it firmly against a flat scrap board. Do not hold a loose panel in one hand while drilling with the other; a bit that catches can spin or lift the work.
Use a drill, not a hammer drill setting. Hammer action is for masonry and will worsen splintering in plywood. A standard cordless drill is enough for most bits. Set the clutch high enough that it does not slip during cutting, and use a slower speed for larger bits. As a starting point, small brad-point bits can run around 1,000 to 2,000 rpm, while large Forstner bits and hole saws should run much slower—often a few hundred rpm. Follow the bit maker’s guidance, and reduce speed if the bit heats, smokes, or chatters.
Keep the drill square to the surface and let the cutting edges work. Excessive pressure can bend a narrow bit, overheat a larger one, or make the drill lurch when it breaks through. For a hole that must be clean on both faces, drill until the center point or pilot just emerges on the back, then stop. Turn the panel over, place the bit in that small exit mark, and finish from the opposite side.
Common problems and fixes
If the bit wanders, check that the tip is sharp and that the panel is secured. A brad-point bit should start on the mark without much pressure; if it skates, a small indentation made with an awl can help. Masking tape over the entry point may reduce surface fuzz, but it is not a substitute for a sharp bit or backing board.
If the veneer tears on the back, the bit probably broke through unsupported material or was fed too quickly. Add a backing board, ease pressure near the exit, or drill from both sides. If a hole saw grabs, stop immediately, secure the work more firmly, and reduce speed. Avoid using an impact driver for precision holes: its pulsing torque can make the bit jump, and it offers less control than a drill.
A practical buying decision
For a typical home toolbox, start with a brad-point set covering the sizes you actually use, plus a backing board kept with your plywood stock. Buy a Forstner bit in a specific diameter when a clean, larger hole or flat-bottomed recess is part of the job. Choose a hole saw when diameter and convenience matter more than a perfectly smooth edge. In all cases, a sharp bit, supported workpiece, and controlled breakthrough matter as much as the bit style.