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Birch plywood is smooth, hard, and more consistent than construction plywood, but it still presents two problems when you bore holes: the outer veneer can chip on the way through, and the layered core can grab a bit as it exits. The best bit depends mainly on hole diameter, edge quality, and whether the hole is a through-hole or a blind pocket.
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Best drill bit types for birch plywood
| Bit type | Best use | Typical hole range | Main advantage | Main drawback |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Brad-point bit | Clean small and medium holes | 1/8 to 1/2 inch | Accurate starting and clean entry | Can burn or dull in thick plywood |
| Forstner bit | Flat-bottom and overlapping holes | 1/4 to 2 inches | Clean, controlled cutting | Needs more drill torque |
| Hole saw | Large through-holes | 3/4 to 6 inches | Fast removal of large circles | More tear-out and vibration |
| Spade bit | Fast rough holes | 1/4 to 1-1/2 inches | Cheap and widely available | Less clean and harder to control |
Best overall: brad-point bits
For most holes under 1/2 inch, a brad-point bit is the best choice. Its center point keeps the bit from wandering, while the cutting spurs score the plywood veneer before the main cutting edges remove material. That produces a noticeably cleaner entry than a standard twist drill.
A quality brad-point drill bit set for wood is a good first purchase for cabinet hardware, shelf pins, dowels, wiring holes, and most general plywood work. Use a slower speed for larger diameters: roughly 1,000 to 1,500 rpm for a 1/2-inch bit, and faster speeds for small bits. The exact setting depends on the drill and bit, but excessive speed creates heat quickly.
Brad points are not ideal for drilling into plywood that contains hidden screws, nails, or metal fasteners. They are also poor at enlarging an existing hole because the center point has nothing solid to guide it. For that job, use a Forstner bit or a sharp twist bit with a sacrificial backing board.
Forstner bits for clean, flat-bottom holes
Choose Forstner bits when the hole must have a flat bottom, such as a concealed hinge cup, shelf support, or recessed magnet. They also work well when two holes overlap or when you need to start a hole partly across an edge. Their rim cuts the perimeter before the interior is cleared, which helps keep the hole round and controlled.
Forstner bits are slower than brad points and demand more from a cordless drill. A compact 12-volt drill can handle small sizes, but a 1-1/4-inch or larger bit is more comfortable with a full-size drill using the low gear. Keep the bit moving; stopping under heavy pressure can scorch the veneer and leave a dark ring.
A Forstner bit set is worth buying if you regularly make furniture or cabinetry. For one or two ordinary through-holes, it is usually unnecessary—the cheaper brad-point or spade-bit option will do the job.
Hole saws for large through-holes
For holes larger than about 1 inch, a hole saw is generally faster and more practical than a large Forstner bit. Use one for plumbing, dust collection, cable routing, and electrical boxes. A hole saw with a pilot drill is easier to start, but the pilot hole also becomes the first source of tear-out if you drill straight through in one pass.
For the cleanest result, mark the center, drill until the pilot exits the back, then stop. Turn the panel over, align the hole saw with the pilot hole, and finish from the opposite face. This prevents the teeth from breaking out the final veneer. You can also clamp a scrap board tightly behind the work, although reversing the cut is more reliable for expensive finished panels.
Use a drill with a side handle for large hole saws. They can catch suddenly, especially in thick plywood or when a tooth hits a hard glue line. An impact driver is not the right tool for most hole saws; its hammering action adds noise, vibration, and unnecessary shock to the arbor.
When a spade bit is good enough
Spade bits are the budget choice for rough utility holes. They are inexpensive, easy to replace, and fast in a cordless drill. If the hole will be hidden behind a cabinet, covered by a grommet, or used for temporary construction work, a spade bit is often all you need.
The trade-off is a rougher exit and greater risk of veneer blowout. Use a sharp bit, moderate pressure, and a sacrificial board behind the plywood. Do not force a dull spade bit through the panel; it can splinter the top face, overheat the drill, and leave an oversized hole. A wood spade bit set makes sense for occasional utility work, but not for visible cabinet surfaces.
How to prevent tear-out and wandering
Support the plywood on a flat scrap board and clamp both pieces firmly. Mark the hole with a sharp pencil or knife, then let the bit’s center point do the locating. Start the drill perpendicular to the panel at low speed. Once the cutting edges are fully engaged, increase speed only if the bit is removing material smoothly.
For through-holes, watch the underside rather than relying on feel. When the pilot point or center spur begins to emerge, reduce pressure and finish slowly. With larger bits, drill from both faces as described above. This matters more with thin birch plywood, where the outer veneer can peel away in a large chip.
If the hole must be precise, measure the actual bit diameter rather than trusting the label. Bits can vary slightly, and plywood thickness can change by a fraction of an inch. Test on an offcut first, particularly for dowels, threaded inserts, or press-fit hardware. A hole that is only 1/32 inch too large can make an insert spin or leave a loose fastener.
What to buy
For a general-purpose kit, start with brad-point bits from 1/8 to 1/2 inch, then add a few Forstner sizes if you build cabinets or furniture. Add a hole saw kit only when your work regularly requires large openings. Choose bits with clean, sharp cutting edges rather than buying the largest set at the lowest price; cheap bits are fine for a few hidden holes but often dull quickly in laminated plywood.
Use the drill’s low gear for large Forstner bits and hole saws, and high gear for small brad points. Keep the drill straight, clear chips frequently, and replace or sharpen bits as soon as they require force. Excess pressure is usually the warning sign that the bit is dull—not a reason to squeeze the trigger harder.